Warning: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /home/gourmetg/public_html/index.php:3) in /home/gourmetg/public_html/wp-content/plugins/index/index.php on line 54
'严凯铃、黄龙观 吃透全马寻古早味' We are on Kwong Wah Yit Poh | Gourmet Garden

Gourmet Garden

Hunting For The Flavors & Texture Of Yesteryears'

A few weeks ago we had a cordial chit chat session with a reporter from Kwong Wah Yit Poh(光华日报) over some light snacks provided by Kozue a Japanese Restaurant in Gurney Plaza. We decided to talk over food because it is our passion for food that started and continue to motivate us to blog and share our expectations and experience. And it is food, a humble bowl of Katsudon, that match made us with Ivy of Kozue to become friends. Some people say “we eat to live” and some may say “we live to eat”, for us it is both. We need to eat for sustenance but we have to feel and enjoy what we eat. Thus, the journey to find what wondrous ingredients that GOD has blessed our fertile lands with.

After weeks of anticipation on how would the interview turn out, we wait no more. The article was posted on Kwong Wah’s website this morning and published in their evening’s newspaper today.

http://www.kwongwah.com.my/supplement/2009/11/23/4.html

23rd November 2009 evening edition of 光华日报 that carried our interview.

23rd November 2009 evening edition of 光华日报 that carried our interview.

With the publication of the interview that was requested by 光华日报 and from feedbacks from some Mandarin speaking friends and readers, we would like to take this opportunity to announce that Gourmet Garden will also be posting in Mandarin(华文)on certain posts or articles in the not so distance future.

Below is the copy of the article and photos that was carried by  光华日报.

严凯铃、黄龙观 吃透全马寻古早味

二零零九年十一月二十三日 上午十时三十四分

报道:杨慎坚
摄影:林则贤/部分由受访者提供

《圣经》有说:人生唯一可享受的,就是吃。黄龙观和严凯铃捧为金科玉律,不仅吃透全马,还独乐乐不如众乐乐摆起路边摊,与识货人分享自家拿手菜,过足热食小贩的瘾头。眼见本土小吃水准每况愈下,他俩毅然加入美食部落格阵容,讲饮讲食,只盼古早原味重见天日。

没有批评就没有进步,两人发挥食话实说的大无畏精神,庆幸不曾招致店家厨师挞伐。夫妻档索性走出虚拟世界成立公司,亮出餐饮管理的私密武器,为陷入困境的食肆指点迷津。

■ 美食当前,除了品尝,分享更是重要。访谈所在的Kozue,是龙观和凯铃最乐意与老饕分享的餐厅。

■ 美食当前,除了品尝,分享更是重要。访谈所在的Kozue,是龙观和凯铃最乐意与老饕分享的餐厅。

来自饮食世家

美食部落格所以形成气候,大抵离不开爱吃及分享。Jason黄龙观与Gill严凯铃也不例外,双方还来自饮食世家,从小在菜香味氤氲的环境中长大,早已生成挑剔的味蕾,还成就后来靠吃喝营生的志业。

龙观的双亲是工厂饭堂的伙食厨师,父亲擅长包点制造,母亲拿手娘惹菜系。从小到大呆在厨房看父母为煮食忙,等到两老去世,他才真正下厨动手烧菜,却遗憾未从至亲那里学到一招半式。好在悟性不低,凭儿时随兄姐吃遍西式料理,重调酱的西餐完全难不倒他。

凯铃母亲祖辈以煮起家,岛上卖菜街已结业的老字号三合饭店,就是妈妈祖父那代开始的。身为家中长女,她小学三四年级已擅煮快熟面,每当大人出远门公干,她就肩负照顾弟妹温饱的责任。有兴趣作铺垫,她常跟在婆婆身边学煮,眼看口问下摸透烹调底蕴。受家族的影响,中餐成了她的强项。

2006年杪架设的gourmet-garden.blogspot.com,由Gill首先发表文章,写了不到一个月,就感受到中文表述的困难,便草草收场,2007全年更处于冬眠状态。2008年8月参与了全槟美食部落客聚会后,她决定重返部落格平台,以全新域名gourmetgarden.com.my示人,与丈夫一同执笔分享美食经。

“我们只是喜爱吃,也喜欢煮,觉得小时吃过的hawker food,古早味已走样,才想到写blog。”交代了撰写美食部落格的原意,他们继续道,“目的是通过评估与交流,让网友了解和认识正宗的地道小吃,给维持传统做法的小贩嘉许,并加以宣扬推广。”

■ 从街边小食到星级餐馆,2人几乎形影不离展开循香品味的旅程。

■ 从街边小食到星级餐馆,2人几乎形影不离展开循香品味的旅程。

网志融入理性与感性

龙观与凯铃后来转向英文书写网志,内容非仅介绍性文字或重图轻文,而是融入理性与感性的大篇幅图文解说。雀屏中选的店家,有享负盛誉也有名不见径传的,点阅率不高,却累积一定的读者粉丝。“美食花园”公开发表的文章近200篇,后期的图文以Jason操刀居多,每天累积达近百人的点击率。

“口味是很个人的,好不好吃全凭个人喜好。不好的我们据实指出,好的我们不吝赞扬,并非有意刁难,只是希望餐馆做不好的,设法改进。我们不是权威,那里有说不对,读者看了欢迎反击回应。”

资本不足 当起小贩

32岁的严凯铃及34岁的黄龙观,一直有个心愿:开专卖古早食味的餐馆。碍于资本不足,他们尝试从小型的路边摊做起,Jason起初只是跑龙套的角色,6点放工后才去帮老婆与叔伯的忙。

2人在槟岛拉曼学院邻近开档,对象锁定学院生。起先卖炒米粉、芋头糕等小食类,因不合学生重量的晚饭用餐要求,而改卖经济饭菜,又因人手不足,后来才专攻套餐式的中西饭食、炒面饭。为夫者学市场专业出身,相当重视大众所需,与爱妻边做边学,从中变化出更多的烹调新技法。

学生乐当白老鼠

成了熟客的学生都乐意当白老鼠,主动试吃给予意见,让他们从中改良,直到煮出合群众口味的成品。当摊贩已是四五年前的事,生意仅维持1年半,学生客源渐少,加上严缺人力,夫妻两人不得不放弃。

对他们来说,行贩岁月是个难得经验,起码尝过当老板的滋味。染指饮食业绝非易事,做得好不好、精不精,常让业主陷于商业与艺术拉锯的两难,“如果以顾客口味为重,做出完全大众化的食物,跟别家没什么两样,无形牺牲了本身想要卖的特色。”

通过吃与喝,凯铃及龙观接触了不少人,与许多知食份子广结善缘,听到饮食男女各异的轶事,还从同侪饕客身上吸取处事的学问。因爱上老字号店家用餐,半岛上大街小巷哪里有好吃,他俩再清楚不过。

大胆理论 理出友谊

不少人都有过这种经验:上高级餐厅用餐,吃到与收费不符的劣品,独自在心底嘀咕谩骂。与其自个儿生闷气或向侍应生大吐苦水,不如找来负责人当面反映理论,“店家过后是否改善,没人知道,至少你敢揭露。他们若依然我行我素,最终将尝到不思进取的恶果。”龙观不留情面说。

他认为,食客心里有疑惑就需找馆方要答案,关键是己身做到客观公平,“既然付出高昂的收费,就该获得相应的口腹享受。吃的东西要是不值那个数目,就要据实反映,闷在心里不说,吃亏的是自己。”

Jason和Gill跟合您广场Kozue梢日本餐馆老板Ivy能结成好友,也是从大胆“进谏”而来,更是由一碗Katsudon建立起来。龙观人生中的日食初体验,是从猪排盖饭开始,那碗在新加坡日本料理店尝过的饭食,味道让他永难忘怀,后来他都以此为评比准绳。

话说他试了梢的猪排盖饭,发觉货不对版而脸露难色,东主察觉后主动走上前,征询意见。他一五一十相告,主人细心听教,还保证他们下回到访,肯定吃到2人心目中的正品。第二次踩进Kozue,再点Katsudon,果然尝到跟原味不差的杰作。

每段寻味旅程,两夫妻通常扫视一遍餐单,再叫来侍应生推荐;这是评价店家好坏的根据之一。“开餐馆的,员工不懂店内的菜色特点,向来宾清楚传达,证明老板有欠诚意和用心。”黄龙观强调。

■ 就是这碗猪排盖饭,让夫妇俩跟Ivy结成好友,并了解何谓有诚意的饮食人。

■ 就是这碗猪排盖饭,让夫妇俩跟Ivy结成好友,并了解何谓有诚意的饮食人。

平常心踏进餐厅

到处找吃是美食部落客的任务,黄龙观与严凯铃的福态身型,多少显露“背朝天的动物都能吃”的不挑食口味。一般展开寻味之旅,到了目标餐厅,两人低调点菜拍照品尝后,再把吃后感写到网志上。

用平常心踏进餐厅,在无压情况下享用眼前的食物,是他们的坚持,“自己掏腰包吃,遇到不对味的,大可放心批评”,凯铃再说,“我们不是食评家,但根据一定要求打分,只有清楚掌握厨师烹调手法的概念,深入了解有关食物的典故和特色,才能给出中肯的论点。”

以胭脂炸鸡为例,大家的认知属于娘惹餐,龙观看过一本饮食杂志,把它当海南菜介绍,他不禁动摇起已知的观念,“Enche Kabin实际源自娘惹菜,只是很多海南饭店都有卖,另外加以改良自成一格。两者风味各不同,海南式的较干脆,娘惹式的较湿软。”

勤于翻查食谱等文献资料,并尽可能探问老一辈师傅,成了美食部落客的必要功课,否则以讹传讹,终将为人诟病。黄氏夫妇的足迹不限槟岛,而走遍全马大城小镇,不刻意找好料吃,而是借工作外访机会,顺道寻访有口碑的目标,多尝试不同风格的料理。

满足口腹享受,在Jason看来,非得上高级餐厅,吃名厨手作。简单如荷包煎蛋,色香味全与否关乎煮者功力。用最简单的材料调理出最好的味道,才是考验厨师手艺的关键。

■ 夫妻档一同上阵,为品味美餐攫住愉悦的时刻。

■ 夫妻档一同上阵,为品味美餐攫住愉悦的时刻。

古早烹调较花心思

槟州政府致力宣传在地小食,把槟城塑造成美食天堂,借吃招来国内外游客,“美食花园”2位网主直认当局走对路,但官爷是否掌握每一食档的素质,却有待商榷,“再多的推广宣扬,摊贩的底子没打好,有好有坏又时好时坏,结果还是徒劳无功,名不副实反而大伤本地美食的元气!”

黄龙观举例说,槟城今日的福建面味道跟儿时没差,汤头颜色却有别;以前的澄明,现在的较沉浊。经明察暗访,他才了解其中的道理:前人收集虾壳加排骨熬煮而成,今人吃到的是以虾壳绞榨弄出。

古早食物跟现今不同,经济效益及速效原则使然外,烹调手法用心和选材的不同,多少随着大环境的变化出现差异。“以前的人不惜时间,花功夫慢慢调理,现在的人抄捷径,出来的成品自然不如以往。”

严凯铃接着话,“更重要的是,今日槟城小贩熟食的质与量,跟吉隆坡比已相形见绌,价格与份量不成正比。”她打个比方,同样的一碗云吞面,槟城的收费低却吃不饱,得多添一碗才有饱足感;吉隆坡的定价高,份量也跟着充足。

早在3年前,夫妻俩合创Kwang Venture市场管理公司,从网页设计、多媒体制作及客制化网上作业,再转向市场策略管理,将主力放在餐饮管理,包括为客户设定餐单菜式。“一道菜是否物超所值,不能凭售价高低衡量,若份量不多,但店家的材料实功夫够,不欺场,已是一种诚意。”Jason补充。

■ 严凯铃在家里亲手烹调颇靠功夫的盆菜。

■ 严凯铃在家里亲手烹调颇靠功夫的盆菜。

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...
Share

23 Responses to “‘严凯铃、黄龙观 吃透全马寻古早味’ We are on Kwong Wah Yit Poh”

  1. Little Inbox says:

    Yes, I just read about it during lunch time just now. Congrats!

    [Reply]

    gill gill Reply:

    thanks for your support, little inbox

    [Reply]

  2. wahhhh! both of u look like superstar weiii! ;p
    .-= thenomadGourmand´s last blog ..Patisserie RUI – The Velvets =-.

    [Reply]

    gill gill Reply:

    super fat star….lol

    [Reply]

  3. ShinYee says:

    Hey!congrate!!
    i never read kwong hwa yit poh..
    so dunno what happen..
    will let my family know about it..
    hehe!

    [Reply]

    gill gill Reply:

    great! hope your family is doing fine 😀

    [Reply]

  4. cariso says:

    I quickly go to kwongwah online and read after knowing this from my foodies ama and adik 😉
    .-= cariso´s last blog ..Gold Coast Restaurant (金海岸餐館) 值得一試! =-.

    [Reply]

    gill gill Reply:

    hahaha…thanks for the foodies amak and adik spreading the news. 🙂

    [Reply]

  5. email2me says:

    Congratz ….. But too bad this Pisang dunno what it means at Kwong Wah ….. lol
    .-= email2me´s last blog ..Japin Ramen at Sungai Wang =-.

    [Reply]

    gill gill Reply:

    thanks, noting extraordinary la. just keep doing what ever we think that is worth to do!

    [Reply]

  6. Steven Goh says:

    Congratulation. Is a great success story. Shell we come out for another celebration?
    .-= Steven Goh´s last blog ..Delightful Hokkien Mee @ Lean Gaik Hokkien Mee Shop, Chai Leng Park =-.

    [Reply]

    Jason Wong Reply:

    No need lah! It is nothing extraordinary, may be ‘ta pau’ half of Taiwan for us. hehehe…

    [Reply]

  7. PenangTuaPui says:

    Congratulation……

    [Reply]

    Jason Wong Reply:

    TQs

    [Reply]

  8. Congratulations in being featured in a full page of the nationwide newspaper 😀
    When are we going to have a feast?

    Cheers!
    .-= Food Promotions´s last blog ..Saffron 3+1 Set Meal Promotion =-.

    [Reply]

    Jason Wong Reply:

    FP,
    Thanks. We were just lucky to be selected amongst the sea of quality blogs.

    [Reply]

  9. ws says:

    Hi Gill

    Thank you for your comment.

    I find that your blog is interesting. Is it possible for zsys to repost your articles?

    Tks.
    ws
    coordinator
    zaishangyanshang@gmail.com
    .-= ws´s last blog ..生活点滴 – 毕业后的第一天。ABrandNewDayofABrandNewodLife =-.

    [Reply]

    gill gill Reply:

    Hi WS, the post that we are on the chinese press article? that shouldn’t be a problem.

    [Reply]

  10. hApPy HaPpY says:

    Thanks for visiting my site, now I know there is a Jason Wong & partner in this food blogging network. I will keep an eye on your site. Keep up the good work.

    [Reply]

  11. […] 这个消息放上面子书 (facebook)后, 获众友人祝贺. 我们心感荣幸, 能够续上报后, […]

  12. penanglang says:

    Very GOOD!!! I like very much!
    but,《圣经》有说:人生唯一可享受的,就是吃。
    It is really from Bible? 第几章第几节?
    Is it written by the reporter?

    [Reply]

    gill gill Reply:

    Yup, Do you have bible?
    You can find the related meanings from the book of Ecclesiastes 传道书
    2:24
    3:12-13
    5:19
    8:15

    [Reply]

  13. […] Article on Gourmet Garden Posted on November 3, 2010 by lonelyclassroom. This entry was posted in Lonely Classroom Episode Archive, Malaysia cantonese podcast, tamjiak, 中餐/娘惹, 声音部落格, 美食介绍. Bookmark the permalink. « 请别坐我的椅子! 摄影集(一) » […]

Leave a Reply

CommentLuv badge

*

684a622350" />