Gourmet Garden

Hunting For The Flavors & Texture Of Yesteryears'

Archive for April, 2010

Day 3 on our Hong Kong Free-And-Easy trip brought us to Hong Kong Island. Morning started with their usual Hong Kong Dim Sum, then proceed with a walk around on foot until they hurt and got on hop-on-hop-off bus for HKD50 only for the whole day.

Here I got off a shot of enforcement officers from the health department (I think) making their rounds on foot. Most of the time back in home soil, the enforcement officers are normally motor vehicles. With foot petrols one would see more and do more, and also keep the inches of the belly and the Government could reduce fuel consumption green house gases

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A few minutes down our walk, we turned in to the maze like alley ways in the area we were in and found food stalls and market stalls practicing their trade in the morning hours.

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After we emerge from the alleys and business district, we began our hunt for places of interests on foot then by bus.

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The double decker public bus serve which provided the hop-on-hop-off service runs along 2 looping routes which allows tourists to move along their historical trail less the effort and with video and audio introduction of the places it passes through. How hope Penang state would have this in place to prevent taxis from fleecing tourists.

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It is what we normally see in Hong Kong movies and soaps, they really take the effort to keep inconvenience and safety top priority by making it compulsory to erect scuff holdings and with extensive nettings.

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The old Hong Kong Police Head Quarters is under renovations. There are actually quite number of old heritage buildings in the area, it is just we need to notice them and admire them in the midst of the ever expanding concrete jungle.

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The tram system that runs along some of the streets in Hong Kong Island. One of these streets is the ‘海味街’ seafood street.

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The entrance to ‘The Peak’  and ‘Madam Tussuad’. As the crowd was picking up, we decided not to visit the place and went on to plan E for makan.

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Public transport in Hong Kong is well connected with sea, land and underground.

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In the evening we walk through Lan Kwai Fong which we found was shorter in length than the famous Bintang Walk or Bangsar’s happening areas. It is all about the branding and image projected. The time to be there should be late evening or early night time, otherwise it was a bit quiet.

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Popularity: 6% [?]

Do You Have What It Takes To Be A Restaurant Owner?

Posted by Jason Wong On April - 21 - 20102 COMMENTS

Starting your own business is the desire or dream of many working stiffs, and entering the F&B industry is one of the easiest choices by considered by many. But does the many have what it takes to be a successful and profit churning restaurateur?  Annually many enter in to this sexy industry which combines together science and art to produce creations that enticed our senses through the manipulation of flavours and sight, but as many as up to 50% to 60% are forced to leave this industry with their tails between their legs suffering huge losses within the first three years of operations. The failure rate is about 26% for the first year itself. Even experience and establish chefs are not spared this tragic ending if they are not well prepared and do not have what it takes to fully participate in the daily managing and marketing of their restaurants. Does your restaurant want to be part of these statistics or is your restaurant equipped to face the challenges to stay afloat or make a lucrative profit margin?

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To become a restaurant owner is not difficult; one would just need to have the answers to the following simple but yet hard questions:

  1. 1. What are your current and future plans for your career or business?
  2. 2. What is the reason for establishing a restaurant?
  3. 3. What kind of food do you have knowledge and passion in?
  4. 4. What is the trend or market demand in your target area?
  5. 5. How much capital do you have for start-up?
  6. How much funds can be pooled for daily operational expenses? My suggestion would be a minimum of six months.
  7. 7. What business or corporate structure should be chosen?
  8. 8. Who and how many competitors are in the area?
  9. Determine what is the most suitable size of the restaurant?
  10. 10. How much is your involvement in the daily operations?

Entering into the restaurant industry is easy; it is the daily managerial and marketing activities that will actually be the challenged to become a successful restaurateur. On the operational front, as an owner you must be ready to participate in every level of managing the restaurant be it in the kitchen or dining floor up to the ‘selling’ of your products to servicing your customers. It is all hands on!

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Case Example:

As Restaurant and Marketing consultants, we recently encounter a restaurant in a prominent mall in Penang that abruptly closed down due to long term mismanagement and inexperience that left it bleeding profusely since the beginning of its operations. From our initial encounter with the restaurant and its owner we already set its life span for between 6 months to 1 year the most. The reason was simple:

  • Right concept poor execution,
  • Inconsistent and poor quality of food served,
  • Lack service initiative by the service crew,
  • High level of wastage that ultimately eat into the margins,
  • Lack of right experienced management to lead the operations and oversee the kitchen activities,
  • Slow adaptation to environmental changes,
  • Inefficient Marketing Strategy and Management,
  • Inefficient control of budget and expenses.

Therefore to succeed in creating and operating your own successful restaurant, you need to have the right concept, proper execution, good management and leadership direction, cost efficient control methods, sound targeted marketing strategy and tactics, and most of all adaptable to changes. Thus, to have the following focus in place before operation of the restaurant begins would provide a higher probability of survival of your restaurant:

  • Let the staff know what your expectations.
  • Develop a good marketing strategy and tactics according to your budget, capacity and target market. to get the word out to more potential customers about your restaurant
  • Make sure a system is ready to provide customer satisfaction in terms of food and service.
  • Work hard to meet your budget limitation and revenue goals.
  • Consider using a restaurant consultant and marketing consultants, if sales are continually down.

Popularity: 3% [?]

5th Penang Food Blogger Gathering At Jurin Express

Posted by Jason Wong On April - 19 - 20104 COMMENTS

The last gathering we had and which also the biggest so far was in August last year (2009) at Vintage Bulgaria in Tanjung Bungah. The recent gathering we had was our 5th and was cap to small size and thus not able to open to the event to the masses because the initial Japanese restaurant “could not cope”.  For our past gatherings we had hosted them in a Hainanese Restaurant, Swedish F&B outlet, Pot Luck and Bulgarian. For the latest flick we chose Japanes and had the eagerness to try out an “established” Japanese Restaurant in G Hotel, but due to the restriction on head count to be limited to 20 and last minute decision to limit the available bento set choices I had no choice to source for a new location. Therefore, we finally had our event in Jurin Express in Gurney Plaza’s New Wing. I am baffle that an established restaurant with a minimum capacity of 80 pax could not cope with an event of 40 pax pre-ordering weeks before from their existing bento menu, and to make things easy on them 5 to 6 choices were pre-emptively selected from their lists! I just wonder what the actual capability of their chefs is!

The last time and only time we had a meal in Jurin was a few years ago when it just begun business in Belissa Row in Pulau Tikus. After that faithful meal we never returned. And from our recent encounter we found out that Jurin Express is now under w hole new owner-cum-management and the food concept is also different from what we had years ago. They currently target the mass market due to their outlet which is in a shopping mall, and therefore provides a more localised flavour in their Japanese dishes.

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Group photo after the event. Cariso & Lilian Chan had to leave early.

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The lunch began with the serving of one of the three starter makis that have yet to reach their menu. The ‘Tempura Kani’ which is actually crab stick hand roll coated in batter and deep fried till crisp then dressed with sweet soyu and decorated with chili flakes and dried herbs. To my preference the cut size was 1 size too big thus the mouth feel was not very pleasant, and because it was served first it would interfere with the following hand roll. This hand roll would be best eaten when it is still warm and crisp.

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The second to be served was their Sushi Combo which was nicely set in a bento box for serving. Everything was fine except that the rice was not compact enough. And because we were serve a heavier tasting and textured maki, we could not fully experience what it could offer in terms of flavour and mouth feel. But as there were leftovers to be taken home, we had some in evening straight out from our fridge and would could taste the sourness in the rice and the sweetness of crab sticks, omelette and so forth. Therefore the serving of dishes to customers must also take into consideration of the timing, flavours and aftertaste.

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The 3rd and final hand roll on the list was their Breaded Deep Fried Maki. I guess this was the favourite amongst the bloggers as almost all that was served was out of sight by the time the event ended. This item was served hot from the fryer and was golden brown and crisp on the outer layer coating. With the added dressing of mayo and shrimp roe, it was a flavourful maki indeed.

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For the event we 4 bento sets to choose from, and  I chose Set A  which has Ginmutsu Teriyaki (Teriyaki Cod Fish), Chicken Ban Ban (Deep Fried Batter Chicken Chunks with Mayo), Ebi Tempura (Deep Fried Batter Shrimps), Yaki Tamago (Sweet Omelette), Garlic Fried Rice, Miso Soup, Free flow of Honey Green Tea (Cold/Hot) and Green Tea Ice Cream with Red Beans. The Teriyaki Cod Fish was actually either deep friend or pan fried then drench with their teriyaki sauce. For me, I would prefer my Cod Fish not deep fried but pan grilled without any batter to maintain the smooth texture and juicy fatty content of the flesh. And the teriyaki sauce was a bit too heavy for me and my wife. Other than that, the other dishes in my bento were pretty standard but I did read that Cariso mention the Chicken Ban Ban was a bit oily or ‘ham yau’.

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Set B had Sashimi (Salmon and Tuna), Unagi (BBQ Japanese Eel), Tamago Kikurage (Stir Fried Black Fungus with Chilies), Yaki Tamago (Sweet Omelette), Garlic Fried Rice, Miso Soup, Free flow of Honey Green Tea (Cold/Hot) and Green Tea Ice Cream with Red Beans. Our new found ‘makan kaki’, Sam Ong who was seated opposite us had this set. He offered us a try of his unagi and it tasted average like those one would fine in this kind of establishment.

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My Gill chose Set C that has Sashimi (Salmon and Tuna), Spicy Salmon, Kakiage (Deep Fried Shrimps, Squid and Vegetables in batter), Yaki Tamago (Sweet Omelette),  Garlic Fried Rice, Miso Soup, Free flow of Honey Green Tea (Cold/Hot) and Green Tea Ice Cream with Red Beans. The Spicy Salmon was also fried with batter and dressed in their in house sauce which tasted spicy and sweet. The kakiage that we had has already loss its crispness. I remember the first time we sample the kakiage, it was crisp outside and moist inside.

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Last was Set D which had Karubi Beef (Stir Fried Beef with Onions), Nama Ika Teriyaki ( Teriyaki Cuttle Fish), Soft Shell Crab Karaage, Yaki Tamago (Sweet Omelette), Garlic Fried Rice, Miso Soup, Free flow of Honey Green Tea (Cold/Hot) and Green Tea Ice Cream with Red Beans. If we had not tried their Karubi beef before, we would have ordered this set instead. As per our previous visit, the beef slices were well done and the beef texture was a bit rough on the texture side and similarly a bit over seasoned with saltiness. The squid was nicely done, but some did mention that it was slightly chewy. We missed the soft shell crab so can’t comment on it.

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OEM Supplied Green Tea Ice Cream Top with Red Beans

Overall the food was a bit too localised for my liking, but then we would have to consider their target market and location. Their flavours are meant for the masses; therefore they have to provide touches of Malaysia to satisfy their clientele which consists of locals, Caucasians and Japanese that prefer something Japanese but off Japanese. Thus, fusion dishes should be the thing or expectations when one decides to dine in Jurin Express. But as a consultant’s point of view, market demand is changing and the fusion trend would inevitably die off and replace with oldskool flavours. And looking at the competition in and around Gurney Plaza plus the human habit of comparing, people would tend to go for a closer authenticity of Japanese cuisine. I do see the keenness of the owners in this business but it would best that they set themselves apart and create what is unique and special to stand out of the already crowded Japanese Restaurant business. My advice to them would be “Do less and do better”, quality is the key!

Apart from sharing a meal together and taking photos, we also talk about cameras, gossip about other place to eat and share ideas and tips in photography. Another by product of the gatherings that we organise is the feedback that we have on the food that we had, what were our expectation and what was the experience in the dining.

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Last on this 5th PFB gathering agenda was handing out food samples that we got from our business alliance’s friend to gather feedbacks and views. We had the opportunity to sample 2 variations of yet to be marketed in Penang chili sauces from Bao Bao. Other door gifts were from Criz in the form of vouchers from his clients and acquaintances.

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Photo Courtesy from Cariso-food.blogspot.com

Address:

Jurin Express Japanese Restaurant
170-02-59/60, 2nd Floor, Gurney Plaza (New Wing),
Persiaran Gurney, 10250 Penang, West Malaysia.
Contact: 604-227 7112
Business Hours: 11.30am-10.00pm

Other bloggers that were present:

Jurin Express does not exist anymore as at October 2010

Popularity: 7% [?]

These are what we had for breakfast, lunch, dinner and supper on our second day in Hong Kong. Breakfast was quite rush as we had to head out to ‘Tai Yu San’, thus a fast bite was in order. Nothing fancy, just their usual breakfast set at their local ‘Char Chan Theng’.

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Majority of the local ‘char chan theng’ would carry instant noodles, similarly like Kim Gary in Malaysia. But what set them apart is that the choice toppings. Over here we had Nissin noodles with pork bacon, simple and straight forward.

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Then there was toast with ham omelet and read beans. The toast was slightly toasted and coated with a light spread of butter, the texture was slightly crisp on the surface and smooth and soft in the insides. One of the reasons that  we do not order this type of toast at our local Kim Gary type fast food chains is that it is often a bit dry and hard, and also of pricing issues. In Malaysia my choice would be our ‘roti kahwin’ or butter and kaya toast followed with soft boiled eggs at our local ‘kopitiam’

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Another set that we ordered was the pork chop, toast, omelet and beans. Consistency was in the toast preparation, crisp, smooth and soft. The pork chop was egg/batter coated fried to a crisp surface and leaving a tender moist meaty slice of pork. Next on our item to look for would be the famous pork chop buns!

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After reaching the peak at ‘Tai Yu San’, we took a pit stop at the temples’ eatery outlet, Deli Vegetarian Cafe. We heard they were famous for their soya bean milk and smooth ‘taufu fah’ or soya bean curd.

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The ‘taufu fah’ was smooth and gentle on the palate and the sugar syrup was not overwhelmingly sweet with a hint of spice of ginger. But the soya milk was not as stand out as the taufu fah.

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The food bloggers that we are, we would not just stop at those soya products, we had ourselves some light snacks from the same shop. Of the 6 items that we bought, we enjoyed the most was the reddish cake which has loads of shredded white reddish and carrot for added texture to the already perfect piece, and taste was well balanced with saltiness and sweetness.

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At night we were lost for dinner! We were eager to try out a steamboat shop that has great offers but only after 9:30pm. Thus we end up having a fast dinner at the following restaurant. We had their ‘Siu Lung Pao’ with King Crab which was very expensive, just 3 dishes already cost us a few hundred(less than HKD400). The ‘siu lung pao’ had a rich soup stock in it compared to the usual dumpling that we had in Penang. Apart from the dumplings, we also order fried ‘nin koa’ and drunken pigeon which was not really something that we appreciate that much.

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Later after we reached our hotel in Mongkok, we headed out again to the surrounding area to look for more eats and also for my camera beg. Too many eateries too choose from, we just ‘hantam’ the one with most people inside. Take my advice, don’t ever do that not even in Malaysia!

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After dining in Hong Kong for eateries a few times, I noticed that this Hong Kong people can really eat! Although their prices are quite high, but their portions are not little either. For our second dinner we had ‘king soy fried noodles’ which was too salty, in fact all the dishes we ordered were too salty. On the table also was their stewed pork and hard boiled eggs,  coagulated pork blood(cooked), beef noodles and a plate of pigs innards and cuttle fish.

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To save on your daily meals, look out for their special discount times. And you also look at the serving size before you order, so that you might not need to order many dishes if you are traveling in pairs of in small groups. It was a lesson learnt the hard way for us!

Popularity: 5% [?]

Are Blogs Relevant To Branding And Is It Effective?

Posted by Jason Wong On April - 13 - 20106 COMMENTS

BRANDING is more than just advertisements and adopting new communication solutions to grow ones business. It involves delivering the promised that was made in ones message or concept that it will provide.  The failure to do so interprets into a loss of confidence and loss of loyalty to ones brand and ultimately the product or service.

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One of the new communication solutions (media) and fast in growing acceptance are blogs. Blogs used to be the online diary of an individual, but recent years have shown us the commercial and political value that it can bring to businesses and politicians. Blogs and other social media was one of the reasons that created a political tsunami during the last General Election on March 8th 2008, where the opposition coalition got control of three states on the Malaysia Peninsular, namely Penang, Perak and Selangor.

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Being a consultant in the Marketing field and a steadfast food blogger it gives us a different prospective when it comes to writing our experience on invited reviews and also on our casual dine-outs. Many restaurants and even hotels are resorting to inviting food and lifestyle bloggers to experience their hospitality and their “products” for free and in return have the blog owners write about their feedback and create an awareness of their brand name and products. Utilising blogs you enjoy:

  • Low investment required,
  • Targeted  advertising or promotion effort,
  • A more persuasive selling of the brand and its message,
  • Longer message life cycle,

But is it really effective? It will be if all the comments carry a positive note of their experience to promote the brand and product. But then it would also rely on the reputation of the bloggers to convince the audience. Reputation in the sense that they show consistency of fair and impartial reporting or comments and an acquired skill and pallet that provides them some authority over their readers or audience. In others words they may be call critics, but popular ‘celebrity’ bloggers do also contribute to the promotional effort as it brings with them the visitor traffic (figures) that follows their blogs as a guide to places of interest.

Whether it is serious food critic bloggers or celebrity food bloggers, the main thing is to get all the basics in running a restaurant in order before inviting bloggers to review and promote the business. Any prematurely planned events will not be in favour of the brand name, in fact it would be detrimental to the branding or promotional effort and also to the reputation of the bloggers. Inevitably the public would, for themselves, experience what the restaurants or business can offer and would form their own judgement.

Would You Trust Reviews of Our Local Bloggers?

Do let us know your experience and trust level of blogs that you follow or know off!

The following is the list of invited review that we have attended:

  1. Miss Saigon at E-Gate, Penang. Closed down late 2009.
  2. Young Heart at Cantonment Road, Penang. Has become our first client for our Marketing & Restaurant Consultation client.
  3. Haven Delights at Penang Times Square. Their menu has changed through time.
  4. Ko-Fu-Loft at Gurney Plaza, Penang. They have closed down since early March 2010.
  5. 113 Cafe at Tanjung Tokong, Penang. Consistency would need to be look at, otherwise a place that we would return for their specialties.
  6. Ivy’s Kitchen at Jalan Chow Thye, Off Burmah Road. A place that we would return for their home cook dishes.
  7. Who’s Bryan at Lorong Teras Jaya 2 in Raja Uda, Butterworth Penang. We have not been back there ever since due to expected consequences.
  8. Pearl Palace at Setia Pearl Island Country Club, Sungai Ara Penang. A place that we visit when I am at my in laws.
  9. Kang Beef House at Jelutong Penang. Would be back for the noodles.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Hong Kong Day 2, Sight Seeing.

Posted by Jason Wong On April - 11 - 20104 COMMENTS

After having our quick breakfast in Mongkok, we headed out for ‘Tai Yu San’ or Ngong Ping. We opted for the cable car route to get to our destination. I like the scenery along the way to the peak, especially the green pastures on the slopes. Totally different from the slopes in Malaysia which is full of trees of sort.

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Upon reaching the peak, we were greeted with some the giant Buddha statue that we usually see in the TVB serial dramas.

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There we are taking a photo at the foot of the giant statue.

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Apart from visiting ‘Tai Yu San’, we also to half a day visiting ‘Tai O’, its jetty, township, market and took a look at the way of life of in this tranquil yet full of surprise village.

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Clear bilingual sign boards which are great for tourists like us. If it had been implemented in whole of Malaysian, it would had in a way preserved the historical names of roads which has disappeared due to human ego.

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Along the walk around, we found some shops that we took photo of which still had some human flavour  in them.

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This place we found a ‘tzi yum’ or fellow jazz and coffee lover who was friendly and helpful in our quest to search some local specialties.

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We bought a bottle of ‘Prawn Paste’ for for testing on ‘kangkung’ and some other dishes that we plan to experiment with.

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Then we move on to scout for ‘eel fish maw’, which we had to ask around for the locally process ones. We were directed by the owners of the cafe that we visited to look for ‘Siu Sing Sok’. He makes his own salted fish too which we also got a few for tasting.

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What we didn’t get from our excursion was the beautiful and flavourful freshly preserved whole duck egg yokes.

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Then we made a pit stop at an old but tasteful house cum business premises run by an old uncle who is still making ‘char kuo’ or steamed glutenous balls stuffed with peanut and sugar fillings the way they used to make it, with wood fire and bamboo steamers.

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Lastly, we headed to a stall which passed by earlier to get some home made pastes to bring back for testing.

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Popularity: 5% [?]

Kang Beef House Revisited

Posted by Jason Wong On April - 7 - 20103 COMMENTS

As we mention that in our invited review post of Kang Beef House that we will return to try their noodles, we did on last Friday (2nd Apr) night. We were in between appointment, thus on the way to Bayan Baru we decided to stop by at Kang’s for dinner. What meant to be a touch n’ go meal turned into a fast sampling of some of the items that we did not have the space for the other day.

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The last trip or review was on the house and arranged by Steven, this time it is less stressful and more enjoyable because it is on our own expenditure and most important it is what we like best; the freedom to comment our will desires. Our dinner began with a piping hot bowl of their clear soup Beef Noodle at RM6.00 for the smallest serving. Because of our mistake we did not get what we would normally order which is the flat rice noodles (koay teow), but instead we were served with a special flat body yellow noodle. I am not sure how the noodle should feel like, to us that faithful night it was not as springy as wantan noodles but not soft like the usual lye water (yellow) noodles.

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Back to the star component for this dish which is the soup. The soup had flavour but was still slightly bland which may be due to the contamination of water from the cooking of the noodles, otherwise it would have been almost perfect. Next time will try to ask for separate serving of soup plus toppings and noodles. As for the beef slices, when served it still maintained a pinkish hue which denotes just the right cooking time was put into these tender slices. The only thing that we found short for these tender slices of beef was that the texture was slightly rough due to the cut it was from.

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Next on our table was their Dry Fried Hor Fun with Beef at RM9.80 with small bowl of beef soup and beef balls. Previous trip we did not really sample what they could offer for this dish as it was served “vegetarian” style as we a guest who does not take beef. Too bad for her! The portion was big on the ‘hor fun’or noodles but the beef slices were a bit scarce. Taste and texture wise it had standard, and can be considered better to some of those that we have eaten in the past.

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Before we were forced to leave, we managed to grab a single person serving of their Clay Pot Beef Soup at RM8.00. The soup base is similar to the soup base of the steamboat that we sampled previously. It had Chinese preserved salted vegetable that gave the soup additional flavour and chunks of white reddish. Even the toppings like tripes, muscle meat, beef belly, tendons, etc seem to be more in volume. This dish would be our choice order if and when visit this specialty shop again.

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While composing our invited review post last month, we were confused with many of the terms used for the various parts of the beef used in their dishes. Now I have got a clearer picture on the various innards that were used. The photo below belongs to the muscle (牛腱), usually it is sliced into thin 3mm slices.

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As for the beef tripe, they served 3 out of the 4 types that the cow has. The first photo is the first of the 4 stomach that the cow has. The 2nd stomach which they run out of stock has a honeycomb like physical texture. The 3rd stomach has a similar outlook as the pigs stomach which is seldom sold. And the last or 4th stomach has spotted flaps which are shown on the next following photo. Tye 4th tripe has a crunchier texture.

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Another body part which is commonly found in the serving of beef noodles or beef specialty house is the tendons (牛筋).

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To sum up our experience at Kang Beef House:

Taste & Texture: 2.9/5 (may be can look into the supply of beef)
Money Value : 2.8/5 (meat portion could be more generous)
Service: 2.9/5 (slight improvement)
Cleanliness: 3.5/5
Atmosphere: 2.8/5 (improved with less noise from the street)

Address: 474, Jalan Jelutong, Penang, Malaysia, 11600

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Popularity: 4% [?]

Food Do’s: Coffee Cupping

Posted by Jason Wong On April - 5 - 20103 COMMENTS

In my previous posting I have written about wine tasting, this post I will dwell on the concept of coffee cupping or tasting. The concept of coffee tasting is call coffee cupping and it shares some similarity with wine tasting. Even the jargons have a lot in common.

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Variety of Coffee Served

Before we go on to the technicalities of coffee tasting, do everyone tastes’ things the same? The answer is no because of the different responsiveness of individuals’ taste buds which is determined by their genes and also the care taken for their taste buds. Thus, the opinions of flavours will greatly differ from individual to individual. The skill or techniques of coffee cupping was created to address this shot coming for certain individuals, so that are able to enjoy coffee as others do.

Coffee cupping involves deep sniffing of the coffee followed by a strong or loud slurping of the coffee so that every spec of taste buds on the tongue are covered by the coffee’s characteristic, especially the back of the tongue. In coffee cupping one attempts to measure the characteristic or aspect of coffee, which include the body or texture, acidity, aroma, flavour and aftertaste. The coffee aspects or characteristics are briefly introduced as follows:

  • Body, is the texture feeling in your mouth or viscosity of the liquid. Viscosity is the thickness or liquidity flow of a liquid, an example comparison would be water and honey or heavy/full body as opposed to light/thin body.
  • Acidity is the sensation of dryness in the back region and under edges of your mouth, and it should not to be confused with the taste sourness. Without acidity the coffee would taste flat and will lack live and taste character.
  • Aroma is the sensation of smell from variety of odours or fragrances. In coffee and like wine you may find hints of floral, fruity, nutty, smoky, citrusy, medicinal, and many more fragrances. With absence of these aromas coffee would taste dull with just taste of sweet, sour and bitter.
  • Flavour is the combined sensation of both taste and aroma which in coffee cupping can be characterised as balanced, full bodied and complex.
    • Balance brings tohether a harmony of flavours and aroma without any particular outstanding aspects.
    • Full body means richness in fragrance and taste.
    • Complex presents a multi spectrum of flavours and odours.
  • Aftertaste is the persistent lingering of the flavour after the coffee has been swallowed.

Desirability of certain coffee bean or bean mixture is dependent on an individual’s flavour preference. In general people would normally shun from coffees that contain  over bitterness, bland, carbon, earthy, flat, grassy, muddy, musty, rubbery, sour, water and turpentine.

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"Fresh" Espresso

After discovering what to look for in your coffee, let us now look at how to make a good cup of coffee. If some of you have watched “Black Hawk Down” there was catchy phrase by Ewan McGregor, ‘It’s All About The Grind’ which is very true. Different grind sizes are used for different methods of brewing to extract the most flavours from the coffee bean without producing the bitter compounds.

  • Drip brewing may use medium to fine grinds,
  • French press requires coarse grinds,
  • Espresso pressured machine uses extra fine grinds,
  • Vacuum coffee pot brew with coarse grinds,

Good coffee also needs fresh beans, balanced water, good control of water temperature, good timing, patience and passion.

The general rule is as follows:

  • Coffee to water ratio should be 55g to 1 litter of filtered water,
  • Water temperature should be at a range of 90.56-96.11°C
  • Coffee should be brewed for 4.5 to 6 minutes depending on brewing method,

Some of the brewing methods I have seen in our local coffee outlets are the Ice Drip Coffee Tower, French Press, Automated Espresso Machines, Drip Coffee Makers, and Vacuum Pots.

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Ice Drip Coffee Tower

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近日遇上了新相识的”同行”,大谈食经,兴喜非常. 论到10多20年的那个找不回的味道,难免大感遗憾.

从劳动时期, 越过脚踏实地的年代, 到了经济起飞的今天. 经得起”风浪”的食档已是寥寥无几.  劳苦小贩,为求两餐,踏实地烹调出他们对自己谋生的执挫. 以材料足够为根基, 精神和心机, 配上炉火纯青的经验, 就是那区区的一碟的炒粿条,加哩面都让您难以忘怀好几十个年头.

无论你是富裕或是贫穷, 简单而踏实的味道是最令你感觉满足和亲切不过。

你是否回想过, 那一家老食店或小贩曾经是你的最爱? 他们还存在吗?

为了推荐买少见少的家常老广东菜, 特地与这个老号做个简单的专访, 希望能与大家分享.

FV-091210-Sai Kee Interview_04亚世饭店坐落在Hotel China Town Inn 后面

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后巷里的家常老广东菜 – 亚世饭店  (世记)

这个位于吉隆坡闹市, 塘人街某个后巷里的老号. 自祖父至今已是第三代入橱作息.

从小跟爸爸(亚世) 学橱艺的现任老板兼主橱的黎雄威 (哥哥), 曾经在加拿大港式快餐店当过4年橱师. 回大马后再次与黎父并肩作战, 直到黎父享年62岁.  由黎雄威接班至今仍然保存着老广府抄的特色, 不跟随朝流, 什么奶油虾,非洲鱼…在这里绝对找不到!  世记是个家庭式生意,  一家大小在这个后巷埋头苦干了30多年.

FV-091210-Sai Kee Interview_27老板兼主橱的黎雄威 (哥哥)

黎祖父是土生土长的中国人. 飘扬过海到南洋, 在吉隆坡落地生根. 龙蛇混杂的塘人街挑起担子买白切鸡饭, 抄粉面饭. 生活极度贫困.  黎爸爸年轻时也身无半文, 时常没钱交房租,被人赶出街.  后来“世记”于1962年正式在这条鸦片巷落脚.

大家是否回有些疑问, 为什么世记呆在后巷呢? 他有什么特别之处? 漆黑狭窄后巷谁会来呢?

以”老就是宝”的道理, 保留着上一代的传统风味, 绑着老顾客的心, 以人传人的方式能留传到今日, 全以”口碑”两字建立.  黎雄威细说, 跟爸爸十多年, 客户还是要爸爸亲下手. 一边炒菜一边喝黑狗啤, 还能和顾客一边聊天呢. 有时还 “串人”…”要快呀, 吃生的囖”…个性率直另他结交了不少朋友.

黎妈妈未去世前是个蒸食妙手, 现在由做楼面的弟弟黎成威替上打河.

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哥哥黎雄威与弟弟黎成威

又漆黑又肮脏的后巷, 初期在这里用餐还蛮不习惯.  来多几次才发觉现并不然. 后巷路灯光亮了, 也干净许多.

除了火后十足的老滋味, 食物份量够大, 价钱的确实惠. 我们4 人吃进大大碟的4菜1汤, 有鱼,大虾,肉, 都不到RM100. 若比起吉隆坡闹市一般的价格, 他们实属超值.

亚世饭店的拿手小菜全都印在名片后面:

矮瓜虾球, 豆腐焖鱼, 鱼滑靚汤, 冬菜蒸猪肉, 三黄蒸蛋, 烧肉抄凉瓜, ……..全是家常菜色.

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看那粗糙的鱼滑就知道有多”家常”啦. 平时少吃蚕菜的我, 一但配上他们的靚汤…却令我爱不释口! 可选择不同蔬菜配搭那清甜的鱼滑汤

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矮瓜虾球 – 矮瓜=茄子, 大虾捞上香浓的balacan酱, 流口水了没?

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豆腐焖鱼 – 香煎马友鱼, 豆腐和豆酱一起焖煮, 相当惹味!

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冬菜蒸猪肉 - 别看平庸的卖像, 要新鲜的肉和油份量配搭恰当, 蒸的火后一点儿也不能忽视.他们的冬菜最赞.

现年45岁的老板黎雄威叹息, 因孩子刚满5岁, 年龄相差太远, 恐怕没人接班, 是末代了.

这条毫不起眼的后巷, 还有很多和亚世走过黄金岁月的同行, 如隔壁卖饮料档和街头的 煮抄都是第两三代的传人.

既然是末代, 要吃就趁早囖!

请游览较早前的英文版

http://www.gourmetgarden.com.my/?p=470


亚世饭店  (世记)

哥哥 黎雄威: 012-3231499

弟弟 黎成威: 012-2906751

电话: 03-20782762

72号, 吉隆坡蘇丹街, 广汇丰茶行(后巷)

(后巷中段, 最大档, 最光亮的就是了)

营业时间:  下午4点至晚上11点

每逢星期五休息

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