Gourmet Garden

Hunting For The Flavors & Texture Of Yesteryears'


Before there were multi-screen Cineplaxes like Gold Screen Cinemas and Tanjung Village, movies were normally screened in stand-alone big screen theatres where local street foods and tidbits were abundant. Currently we only see imports like popcorn, deep fried nuggets and french fries, hot dogs, and lots more at those Cineplexes. May be those who are 30 – 35 years of age and above might still remember the good old days where street vendors who were ever ready with their trays of local delicacies like braised chicken feet, flame grilled meat slices and bishop’s nose; packets of “kacang putih”, buckets of ice cold soya bean milk, sugar cane juice and etc.  Although the Roti Bak Kua vendor still exists but in small numbers, many have stopped preparing the delicacies themselves to give way to the economies of scale of buying from wholesale distributors. Our research project has led us to a 77years old Mr. Lee Fay Hoong who still insists to make these fading delicacies from scratch, fresh and personal. It may be exotic to some but these are the flavours and textures that we grew up with, like the big silver screen theatres that dotted the busy Penang road area. Uncle Fay Hoong whom we usually call had allowed us into his humble and aged kitchen to capture the essence of the Roti Bak Kua trade. This is the heart and soul of his trade where minced pork is made into the delight-able sweet and savoury sheets of charcoal flame grilled “Bak Kua”, slow braised chicken wings, feet and innards and duck web wraps. Fay Hoong’s Bak Kua does not require neither complicated ingredients nor processing it is all about fresh minced pork meat seasoned with his decades old recipe and a little bit of passion and patience. The seasoned mince pork is evenly spread over a bamboo tray and placed in a smoke box where the sheets of juicy meat are hot smoked until it is “mature” before they are put through a charcoal heat grilling process. “Bak Kua” is only the tip of the iceberg of goodies that the Roti Bak Kua street vendors carry in their arsenal of sinful delights, but many of these delights are fading with the passing of time as it is tedious to prepare.  What intrigues us the most about Fay Hoong’s trade is their insistence to prepare everything themselves and the continuation of preparing their products with a personal touch, especially their duck web wraps (鸭脚包). This delicacy requires a tedious process that needs lots of discipline and effort. A duck web wrap consists of a few pieces of sliced lean meat, some strips of lard held by a whole duck foot with its web and wrapped with a strip of clean and dried pig’s intestine. The pig’s intestine is washed thoroughly before it is filled with air and hung to dry under the sun before it is cut into the required length for securing the duck web wraps. Then the duck webs are cleaned and have their nails trimmed before the all the ingredients are bundled together and braised in Fay Hoong’s rich and sweet secret gravy. Each bundle of lean meat, lard and duck web is painstakingly assembled and secured with the dried pig’s intestine. Many years ago, maybe decades, pig liver were also included in the bundle, but have since been excluded due to the change of taste preference. Each duck web wrap bundle is braised until soft and tender with a rich starchy texture; the lean meat slices are firm, pork lard will melt in your mouth and the duck webs are tender and off the bone. Uncle Fay Hoong begins selling from 3:00pm and closes at around 6:00pm, but the duck web wraps are usually sold out half way through. They normally rest on Sundays only. Their stall is located at the corner of Cintra Street and Kimberley Street.


Savory Tang Yuan for Winter Solstice (Dong Zhì)

Posted by gill gill On December - 21 - 20101 COMMENT

Have you heard or try Savory Tang Yuan before?

It is truly a “Forgotten Recipe” from Hakka & Cantonese Dialect. We have received many readers request about this savory tang yuan recipe since we’ve posted the winter solstice from 2008.
Other than we talk about the sweet version which has tones of fans, we rather share those who are forgotten and unique from the rest.
We have prepare the steps with photo and recipe below, and do enjoy the cooking and happy winter solstice to you & your family 🙂

Step 1 & 2. Begin of the Yellow Bean & Anchovies Soup Base

Step 4. Chicken Gizzard to Give the extra texture
Slice Pork & Spring Onions
Tang Yuan In Bean and Anchovies Soup

Savory Tang Yuan Soup

Tang Yuan:

I don’t really know what and how to make the tang yuan dough, but all I know is using glutinous four to makes it up…heee

The only tips that I can share is, cook the tang yuan in boiling water and wait until its float on top of the water, and its cooked. And throw them immediately into Ice Water. This step is to make the ball springier and doesn’t go lumpy /mushy.

We don’t really measure what we cook for this Soup, and is all according to the taste

Soup base (basic soup base for wonton noodle soup):

  • Handfuls of Dried Soya Bean
  • Handfuls of Dried Anchovies
  • Chicken or Pig born
  • Water for soup


  • Cabbage (coarsely shredded)
  • Chicken gizzard (thick slices)
  • Pork belly 600gm or more (in whole pcs)
  • Spring onion (4cm in length)
  • Home fried shallots

Step by Step:

  1. Put Soya Bean & Anchovies into soup bag/sachet. Don’t insert the bag too full, when it cooks, the beans will be bloated. The ideal portion is 1/3 of the bag. Or put those 2 ingredients in 2 different bags.
  2. After filled in the Soya Bean & Anchovies in the bag, put them all into boiling water and cover the lid, with medium to low heat, and cook about 30min or until you can smell the aroma.
  3. Take out the soup bag. Leave the soup aside.
  4. Boil water in another pot, to poach the whole pcs of pork belly and chicken gizzard until it’s done or tender. Take out and drain. Cut them into thin slices when it’s cooled. Set both aside.
  5. Warm up the Anchovies soup and throw the cabbage in and cooked till tender. Add Salt to taste. Drain the Vege and set aside.
  6. Basically the cooking step is all done.

Eating Step:

Just heat up the soup, scope all the precooked ingredient, tong yuan, cabbage, gizzard, pork belly, spring onion, and pour the steaming hot soup into the bowl and top with some homemade fried shallot. Enjoy!

Those precooked ingredient and soup can keep into the refrigerator and you may heat up for the next day. Except tang yuan, its good when eat its fresh.


Simple but yet hard to master, it is one of the most common noodle dish in Malaysia, Hong Kong, Singapore, etc, and yet many have been disappointing. In this current times, almost all the noodles are bought from suppliers and they are not left to “aged” sufficiently, the soup base are not made as they were used to, the consistency of toppings and other ingredients are not controlled and most of all the passion and focus of the trade is no longer there.  Therefore good businesses that still hold strong on serving good food like the old days are hard to come by.

Of recent while preparing for this post on Chee Meng Cafe (志明茶室) there have been some articles published by the newsprint media and by a well known blog. We were delighted that this noodle business has attracted attention not only from us, but like many they have only managed to introduce the business and have neglected their uniqueness and specialty.  We can’t blame them because time is precious; it took us a few visits in a span of a few weeks to really grasp their uniqueness (精髓) and tried all that they have installed in their humble business through 4 decades of experience in manning their Wantan Noodle stall.

Hidden in row of old shop houses off Penang Road on Jalan Dato Koyah we found a business which only specializes only on Wantan Noodles.  Chee Meng Cafe houses the wantan noodle(云吞麵) stall that is run by Mr. and Mrs. Tan(陈). The used work their trade in a coffee shop, Tai Wah, at the junction of Jalan Agryll and Lebuh Clarke before they moved here sometime back last year. This jovial couple is always ready to chat and tell us about the good old days (in terms of food), and they too agree that food does not taste the way they used.

As stated in the price list below, the prices of their servings are considered reasonable as compared to the prices up held by similar businesses in and around town. Small serving is at RM2.50, medium at RM2.80, big at RM3.00 and special at RM3.30. Dumplings (水饺) are at RM0.60 per piece.

The norm for dry wantan noodles is the sweet caramel tasting dark soya sauce and fragrant lard. But these days many stalls have foregone the lard for a more healthy fragrant oil. At Chee Meng, the dry noodles are coated with fragrant roast pork oil and heavier tasting dark soya sauce with a dash of soup stock and white pepper. The uniqueness is the roast pork oil that is used in place of just plain old lard. The oil gives it a special smoky and porky flavour which is synonymous with roast pork.

Tips: Most of the time we would like our dry noodles extra without the dash soup stock. This way we can taste the flavours of the dressing.

While I like the dark soya sauce’s flavours and sweet caramel taste, I have been thought otherwise by Mrs Tan. She introduced us to their dry noodles without dark soya sauce and only laced with their fragrant roast pork oil. It is this version that kept us coming back for more. With just the roast pork oil, we could even taste the flavours from within the noodles and feel the texture of every strand of noodles.

The soupy version of the wantan noodles is average less the thirsty after feeling. The soup base is light with slight meaty sweetness and it goes very well with their meat dumpling or 水饺.

Tips:) Do remember that soupy versions must go with 3 to 4 day old noodles or else it would loose its springiness and firmness when immersed in the soup.

Another specialty that they have at their business is the availability of chicken spare parts. We have tried the chicken gizzards, egg sack, undeveloped eggs that are still in the sack and chicken intestines. The old hen chicken skin minus the fats is also one of the things that one should not miss, but the availability is limited. The skin is cut length wise to resemble the cooked jelly fish, and the texture also resembles the jelly fish but with more crunch. Toss in some oil, lightly seasoned and served with sprinkles of chopped scallions; it makes quite a delicious snaking item to have.

For more reading on Chee Meng Cafe you may drop by Kwang Wah Daily for their published article on them.

Overall rating for Chee Meng Cafe:

Taste & Texture: 4.0/5 (want more “aged” noodles)
Money Value: 4.0/5 (comparably reasonable with the prices in surrounding areas )
Service: 4.5/5 (jovial and friendly to all customers not only us!)
Cleanliness: 4.0/5 (well lit and clean plus newly renovated)
Atmosphere: 3.5/5 (slightly warm in the mid day or on sunny days)

They have moved back to:
Address: 20 Jalan Dato Koyah, Penang Near 48-102, Jalan Argyll, 10050 Georgetown. Penang (Opposite Caltex Petrol Station)

Business Hour: 7am till 12pm daily except Tuesday.

Chinse Version: http://www.gourmetgarden.com.my/2010/08/20/%E7%99%BD%E4%BA%91%E5%90%9E%E9%9D%A2/

Get to know Chee Meng Wantan Noodle latest update, pls visit http://www.gourmetgarden.com.my/2011/02/13/chee-meng-wantan-mee-is-back/


云吞麵啊…云吞麵, 尽管是一碟最普通的小吃,遍布街头小巷, 然而欠缺诚意,也难以精通。
近日有个的英文部落格也选写这家志明茶室的云吞麵, 但看了看, 却没写出那家麵的精髓. 纯粹是为了介绍而介绍吗? 那太草草了事吧?

很多人都喜愛吃, 但是否懂得吃?

“愛吃”和”知食”是兩回事,”知食’和”懂得吃”又是另一回事. 大家同意吗?

愛吃要求的是食物滿足口福,而知食者,注重食物背后的故事。那懂得吃呢? 懂得如何吃一样东西要有了解食物物背景之余, 还需知正确吃法, 吃时如何加上配料可另食物增添色采. 那才是懂得吃吗!

我俩每次到访食市都会眼看口下问, 观察周围, 方可收集资料. 吃了好几趟才动笔. 我们今年才发现这家坐落在桥治市的一街Jalan Dato Koyah Jalan Argyll, 10050 Georgetown- 陈志明茶室, 老号卖的只有云吞麵.

陈志明先生和他太太一对友善的老夫妇, 已经营云吞麵有超过40年历史 , 并在今年五月份上了光华日报. http://www.kwongwah.com.my/supplement/2010/05/19/3.html. 报章内也没提到他的特色, 那就让我来和大家分享他们的精髓吧.


推荐: 白色云吞麵!

特点1: ”白”色云吞麵, 没放黑酱油, 才能吃到面条本身的香味.

特点2: 鸭蛋面条爽口且有弹性.

私底话: 有一次, 志明太太让出她收藏了4天的私伙鸭蛋面条, 经收水过程后, 比平时吃的更加爽口, 这只有老号才懂得这个步骤的重要性, 若你去问那些”新脚”他可能还没听过呢! 我总不想那么的唠叨, 但还是要一提, 收水过程方可令面条有弹性. 不妨游览我写过的”何谓好吃的云吞面” 参考一番.

那为什么我说那是私伙面条呢? 原来她收了4天的面是留给自己吃的! 是非卖品. “要收藏4天的面那来那么大的地方呀? 只好留些给自己囖“: 她回答.

特点3: 他们特地选用著名的”青天烧腊饭”的烧排猪油一起捞面, 阵阵烧肉香味, 真是齿甲流香!

贴示: 切记若要品尝到以上所列出特点, 必需order干干的干捞面! 若怕腻, 交代放少点油.


若选择吃普通即黑版的云吞麵, 也可尝到少许烧肉油味, 但没吃”白”版的那么明显.



鸡皮 – 生蛋老母鸡的皮,切片, 烧肉油和酱汁拌上青葱粒享用, 清新爽口, 好像在吃jelly fish 的 感觉. 皮下没脂肪, 不会腻, 不妨试试. 若怕腻, 叫老板放少油即可.

还没出世的鸡蛋 – 老母鸡的“生仔肠”和还没出世的鸡蛋这里都有.

鸡皮, 蛋和肠都是热门货,要吃就哋趁早, 能否吃到要看运气囖.

地址: Near 48-102, Jalan Argyll, 10050 Georgetown. Penang (Opposite Caltex Petrol Station)


多人时, 难免品质会有差异. 上午11点多才没那么拥挤. 可跟老板娘闲聊之余也可品尝较”优质”的云吞麵, 乐事也!

营业时间是早上7时至12时或直到售完. 休星期二

我的金句: 一尝白即丢黑, 尽管试一试.


最新咨询 http://www.gourmetgarden.com.my/2011/02/13/chee-meng-wantan-mee-is-back/


近日遇上了新相识的”同行”,大谈食经,兴喜非常. 论到10多20年的那个找不回的味道,难免大感遗憾.

从劳动时期, 越过脚踏实地的年代, 到了经济起飞的今天. 经得起”风浪”的食档已是寥寥无几.  劳苦小贩,为求两餐,踏实地烹调出他们对自己谋生的执挫. 以材料足够为根基, 精神和心机, 配上炉火纯青的经验, 就是那区区的一碟的炒粿条,加哩面都让您难以忘怀好几十个年头.

无论你是富裕或是贫穷, 简单而踏实的味道是最令你感觉满足和亲切不过。

你是否回想过, 那一家老食店或小贩曾经是你的最爱? 他们还存在吗?

为了推荐买少见少的家常老广东菜, 特地与这个老号做个简单的专访, 希望能与大家分享.

FV-091210-Sai Kee Interview_04亚世饭店坐落在Hotel China Town Inn 后面

FV-091210-Sai Kee Interview_01

后巷里的家常老广东菜 – 亚世饭店  (世记)

这个位于吉隆坡闹市, 塘人街某个后巷里的老号. 自祖父至今已是第三代入橱作息.

从小跟爸爸(亚世) 学橱艺的现任老板兼主橱的黎雄威 (哥哥), 曾经在加拿大港式快餐店当过4年橱师. 回大马后再次与黎父并肩作战, 直到黎父享年62岁.  由黎雄威接班至今仍然保存着老广府抄的特色, 不跟随朝流, 什么奶油虾,非洲鱼…在这里绝对找不到!  世记是个家庭式生意,  一家大小在这个后巷埋头苦干了30多年.

FV-091210-Sai Kee Interview_27老板兼主橱的黎雄威 (哥哥)

黎祖父是土生土长的中国人. 飘扬过海到南洋, 在吉隆坡落地生根. 龙蛇混杂的塘人街挑起担子买白切鸡饭, 抄粉面饭. 生活极度贫困.  黎爸爸年轻时也身无半文, 时常没钱交房租,被人赶出街.  后来“世记”于1962年正式在这条鸦片巷落脚.

大家是否回有些疑问, 为什么世记呆在后巷呢? 他有什么特别之处? 漆黑狭窄后巷谁会来呢?

以”老就是宝”的道理, 保留着上一代的传统风味, 绑着老顾客的心, 以人传人的方式能留传到今日, 全以”口碑”两字建立.  黎雄威细说, 跟爸爸十多年, 客户还是要爸爸亲下手. 一边炒菜一边喝黑狗啤, 还能和顾客一边聊天呢. 有时还 “串人”…”要快呀, 吃生的囖”…个性率直另他结交了不少朋友.

黎妈妈未去世前是个蒸食妙手, 现在由做楼面的弟弟黎成威替上打河.

FV-091210-Sai Kee Interview_38

FV-091210-Sai Kee Interview_40


又漆黑又肮脏的后巷, 初期在这里用餐还蛮不习惯.  来多几次才发觉现并不然. 后巷路灯光亮了, 也干净许多.

除了火后十足的老滋味, 食物份量够大, 价钱的确实惠. 我们4 人吃进大大碟的4菜1汤, 有鱼,大虾,肉, 都不到RM100. 若比起吉隆坡闹市一般的价格, 他们实属超值.


矮瓜虾球, 豆腐焖鱼, 鱼滑靚汤, 冬菜蒸猪肉, 三黄蒸蛋, 烧肉抄凉瓜, ……..全是家常菜色.

FV-091210-Sai Kee Interview_31

看那粗糙的鱼滑就知道有多”家常”啦. 平时少吃蚕菜的我, 一但配上他们的靚汤…却令我爱不释口! 可选择不同蔬菜配搭那清甜的鱼滑汤

FV-091210-Sai Kee Interview_32

矮瓜虾球 – 矮瓜=茄子, 大虾捞上香浓的balacan酱, 流口水了没?

FV-091210-Sai Kee Interview_30

豆腐焖鱼 – 香煎马友鱼, 豆腐和豆酱一起焖煮, 相当惹味!

FV-091210-Sai Kee Interview_35

冬菜蒸猪肉 – 别看平庸的卖像, 要新鲜的肉和油份量配搭恰当, 蒸的火后一点儿也不能忽视.他们的冬菜最赞.

现年45岁的老板黎雄威叹息, 因孩子刚满5岁, 年龄相差太远, 恐怕没人接班, 是末代了.

这条毫不起眼的后巷, 还有很多和亚世走过黄金岁月的同行, 如隔壁卖饮料档和街头的 煮抄都是第两三代的传人.

既然是末代, 要吃就趁早囖!



亚世饭店  (世记)

哥哥 黎雄威: 012-3231499

弟弟 黎成威: 012-2906751

电话: 03-20782762

72号, 吉隆坡蘇丹街, 广汇丰茶行(后巷)

(后巷中段, 最大档, 最光亮的就是了)

营业时间:  下午4点至晚上11点



Cantonese Old School Savoury Tang Yuan has its proved

Posted by gill gill On February - 1 - 20102 COMMENTS

Last month we posted a post to do about the introduction of  Savory Tang Yuan at our restaurant marketing clients’ place, and it got some feedbacks like the non-existence of such traditional Chinese delicacy, query about the origin and authenticity of such dishes, and so forth. And by chance of while we were doing some research for our other projects, we came to to find the following article that talks about the traditional dishes that are found in Malaysia and China. Thus, we thought of sharing this article with all so  that we can have a further insight into our Chines culture and practices in terms of food.

Savory Tang Yuan has its origin from the Canton province of China, in fact it is considered one of the oldschool specialty from that area.


posted on :2006-03-13

Time: 17:08:34

The link:


the photo as below shows (highlighted with red cicle) the Savoury Tang Yuan  has  stated in the China Review News article.

chinareviewnews - Savory Tang



Posted by gill gill On December - 22 - 20091 COMMENT

Chinese Sausage

上集讲到冬节吃腊味, 那这回就来动手做家常腊肠!

猪前腿肉碎(夹心) 450克
五花腩肉 170克
玫瑰露酒 30克
豬肠衣 20克

盐     1茶匙
生抽 50克
蚝油 30克
白砂糖 110克

1.    将肉碎和腌料(除酒)拌均匀, 拌到起胶, 腌3个小时以上存入冰箱过夜.
2.    加入酒, 搅匀后马上塞进肠衣内.
3.    把肉塞完毕后, 用 绳子绑出喜爱的长度. 用针在肉肠上刺洞, 然后烫热水.
4.    在强烈的太阳光下晒2天至到八九成干身即可收下来,若是太干,吃起来会硬邦邦的,口感不好.
5.    若天气不稳定, 可把肉肠放进烘炉里以慢火烘干.
6.    把晒好的腊肠收入冰箱储存.


若你想烹调和享用自己辛苦的杰作, 你可游览我们2008年在新年其间所分享英文版腊味煲仔饭食谱




Posted by gill gill On November - 24 - 200927 COMMENTS

云吞面是起源于广州。据说,此食品在唐宋时已传入广东。至于广东何时用“云吞”二字取代“馄饨”之称,则无从考证。经几百年后的今天, 云吞面已经是谱罗大众绝不可缺的街头面食,在华人心目中有不可取代的地位. 随着华人移民的增加,在不同国家和区域里的云吞面也各有各精彩.在这儿暂别不谈历史, 不如大家一起来研究一下大马和香港两地的云吞面有何不同之处, 了解面条区分之余, 分享怎样吃云吞面才是最赞.


不论是云吞面或是炒粿條,用“猪油和猪油渣”来烹调, 才能带出它原有的特色和香味。无可否认,现今社会每样都强调“吃得建康”。但不是叫你每天都吃炒粿條,云吞面呀!偶而尝一尝也无妨吧?什么东西多吃也有害. 例如Vitamin A, B, C够好了吧?若你吃得太多,它令你的肝脏负荷不来而倒至损坏. 那还有什么是好的呀? 不是“猪油”不好,而是现代人少做运动,怕肥才不敢吃.真可惜!你们该知道为何槟城的小食比吉隆坡来得有水准吧?虽然槟城好吃的越来越少,但有些还仍然保存着传统的烹调方式。



新鲜出炉的云吞面条其实是不鼓励现做现吃, 若你现煮, 会感觉吃面团一样, 毫无咬劲. 听前辈说, 云吞面条必须经过“走碱液”的步奏, 让它蒸发, 才算合格. 最理想的是放 置4天. 经过“走碱”的面条吃起来特别爽口而且有弹性. 现今讲求快速生产, 面家多以现做现批, 或最多“走碱” 2天而已.

查看书籍发现, 原来传统的云吞面条是用大茅竹竿即“竹升” 打压出来的, 称之为”竹升面”。面团经过用手搓面处理后,用“竹升”压打2小时,  全凭经验, 功夫和恒心.

云吞面有三类: 全蛋面, 半蛋面, 水面
全蛋面以鸭蛋和面,绝不加一滴水, 打出来的面条爽滑韧性好,蛋味香浓。
水面则不放蛋, 煮后呈半透明, 和以上两种相比,没香味, 需靠酱汁拌味.


酱汁做法是用酱清,黑酱油,蚝油,麻油,混入少许上汤和纯正猪油或烧猪油一起捞。配上半肥廋叉烧,肥美菜心,酸度适中的奄制青辣椒和皮薄陷美的水煮云吞或酥脆炸云吞,在洒上葱粒, 香脆可口的猪油渣…哇!简直是无敌的配搭呀, 满足满足!

而本地的汤头是以江鱼仔, 黄豆, 猪大骨熬煮而成, 有独特的清香甜味.
以我各人口味,我喜爱吃干捞,特别是干干的, 还有缺一不可的猪油渣!不防试一试.

FV-090411-Seng Thor Kopitiam_15


FV-090411-Seng Thor Kopitiam_20


FV-090411-Seng Thor Kopitiam_26酥脆炸云吞

FV-090411-Seng Thor Kopitiam_22

香脆可口猪油渣 :D~

FV-081227-KL (12)



然而香港与马来西亚的云吞面版本完全不同, 他们讲究的是面条质感和弹性, 细得像米粉般幼, 配上大地鱼干上汤, 爽脆鲜味的大虾云吞(完全没放猪肉), 用韭黄段来点缀. 这就是名副其实的现代香港云吞面!


汤头用猪骨, 虾米, 虾子和大地鱼干以文火一起熬煮,汤必须澄清透澈,味道浓,才可突显云吞和面条的色泽和口感。
云吞皮包上新鲜大虾和虾子, 口感十足, 鲜甜带有咸香. 一乐也.
香港干捞面决不像大马般的捞酱汁, 他们的非常简单, 只是捞猪油和虾子(干虾蛋)一起同吃.

无论是大马或香港都各有千秋.那您又有什么看发呢? 那一种是您的最爱? 有谁能介绍好的云吞面家吗?





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