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Hokkien | Gourmet Garden

Gourmet Garden

Hunting For The Flavors & Texture Of Yesteryears'

Hokkien

Early September, we received a packaged sent through courier service from Guan Heong Biscuit, a biscuit shop in Ipoh Perak that was established in 1918 by the Mr. Sitt Kun Shan. After being first approached by their 4th generation proprietor in waiting in mid-August to sample and write about their traditional and hand-made signature biscuits and their Hokkien and Teochew mooncakes, we were eager to experience them especially after knowing that they are 5 years shy of being a century old and still being run by the descendants of Sitt Kun Shan. Part of our conservation work is to encourage the younger generations to inherit and carry on the various trades that made up the heritage and culture of what Malaysia was built on.

Mr. Sitt Kun Shan, who was born and brought up in a baker’s family from Zhen Jiang, China, came to Malaya during the third wave of mass human migration in the early 19th century from China, where there was turmoil and displacement. Leaving behind the land he once calls home, he made his way to Malaya (now Malaysia) during an era of economic boom due to tin mining. And in 1918, Sitt Kun Shan established Guan Heong, the first bakery shop in Ipoh New Town. The name Guan Heong roughly translates to “original flavours” from Hokkien, to serve original and high quality tasting pastry to customers. And it is this philosophy that guides this age old Chinese bakery business until the present day to continue present fresh pastry using high quality ingredients, no artificial flavouring and most importantly hand-made. Currently, Guan Heong is being manned by its third generation proprietor, Sitt Hock Lye who inherited it from Sitt You Zhu.

Guan Heong produces and sells Heong Pheah, Pong Pheah, Salted Tau Sar Pheah, peanut candy, sweet sesame crispies, sweet rice crispies, Lo Poh Peang (wedding biscuits) and mooncakes amongst many. Their traditional Hokkien and Teochew mooncakes were once featured by the The Star newspaper back in the year 2007. But through the efforts of its current third generation proprietor, Sitt Hock Lye with his better half further diversify their product range by including Meat Floss Biscuit, Dried Meat Biscuit, pineapple rolls and nutty cookies some 10 year ago (2003), which have further further carved out a name for Guan Heong in and around Ipoh.

Their signature biscuit series include  the Floss with Lotus Paste, Floss with Lotus Pastes and Salted Egg and Dried Pork a.k.a Bakkwa, which shares a similar pastry base that is layered, puffed and flaky. If the biscuits were to be warmed up in a preheated oven for at least 7.5 minutes it would have crisp texture. The oven should be fired up to 170 degrees C for 5 minutes, before loading the biscuits in it with the power (heater) off for 7.5 to 10 minutes. As for the fillings, each individual variation has their own distinctive flavour profile on top of the sweet and savoury taste combination, and Guan Heong are not stingy on the generosity of the fillings. They run out of stock easily, so to avoid disappointment call to book them for pick-up or have them delivered to your doorstep, minimum order 6 boxes with a postal charge of RM 12.60 (depending on prevailing rates).

Floss with Lotus Paste biscuit, filled to brim with savoury sweet meat floss and fragrant lotus paste that balances in terms of sweetness and savouriness. 

Floss with Lotus Pastes and Salted Egg biscuit, filled with “pandan” scented earthy lotus paste, meaty sweet floss and rich and creamy sandy salted duck egg yolk. The egg yolk delivers a rich and exotic taste into the biscuit.

Bak Kua (Chinese pork jerky slices) biscuit, sweet and smoky slices of pork jerky with a hint of meatiness plastered with conventional lotus paste and encased in a crisp and earthy pastry.

Apart from their signature biscuits, we were also introduced to their traditional Hokkien and Teochew mooncakes which are available not only during the mid-autumn festivities but all year round, however pre-ordering is required. Their Hokkien Mooncake has a crusty pastry topped with sesame seeds and filled with winter melon, melon seeds, nuts, dried orange peel, fried shallots and flavoured with Chinese five spice. It was sweet and tangy with a hint of nuttiness, but at the same time with a bit savouriness from the five spice.

Teochew Mooncake on the other hand has a puffy and layered pastry filled with the similar ingredients as of the Hokkien mooncake except there is no Chinese Five Spice. Contributing the savouriness into the Teochew mooncake is the ‘Mui Choy’ (Chinese preserved salted vegetable). It is sweet and savoury with a sticky filling inside, and fragrant and flaky outside.

Both the Hokkien and Teochew mooncakes require an acquired taste by some extend to really enjoy the flavours and texture of the two, but the flavours grow with every bite. For those who are less adventurous, you could try their more common mooncakes which are available for mid-autumn festival. One of these mooncakes is the Shanghainese Mooncake with a reduced sweetness to meet the health-conscious trend, the mooncakes stands out because the pastry case is crumbly like that of a soft crust pineapple tart, and less greasy as compared to the usual mooncake pastry. The fillings inside include sweet earthy lotus paste, nutty melon seeds and rich and salty fragrant salted duck egg yolk.

Other than these exotic mooncakes, Guan Heong also makes and bakes classic flavoured mooncakes like lotus paste, mixed nuts, red bean, etc.  This year, they have developed some new varieties for this year’s mid-autumn (Mooncake) festival, which includes Bak Kua with lotus, red dates, etc.

To avoid disappointment, visit them early or call them to book your favourite mooncakes before they run out of stock for this season as they are all manually hand-made to preserve their pastry making traditions. Guan Heong caters to postal deliveries to place all over Peninsular Malaysia, we had ours delivered to our doorstep well packaged to ensure no contamination of sorts.

 

Guan Heong Biscuit Shop
No.160, Jalan Sultan Iskandar (Hugh Low Street)
30000 Ipoh, Perak
Tel: 05-241 2399 / 016-535 6990 / 017-573 6277
GPS: N4 35.601 E101 05.026
Business hours: Mondays to Saturdays 9am to 7pm & Sundays 9.30am to 3pm
 
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最新消息:

发觉周大叔没开档已几个星期, 于是问邻近档摊, 才知道周夫人已离开人世. 周大叔也卖掉档口从今不再炒硕莪糕和猪血面线了. 换句话说, 从此罕有的槟城猪血面线和炒硕莪糕也少了一档. 嗨…要吃都没得吃啦!

希望周大叔能节哀顺变.

往事已成回味….

老福建古早味-猪血面线 (Curdle Pig’s Blood Noodles)

previous post : 18日 9月 2010

猪血面线

阅读有关…老福建古早味 – 炒硕莪糕 (Sago Char)

 

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炒硕莪糕 (Sago Char)最新情报

Posted by gill gill On June - 1 - 2011ADD COMMENTS

最新情报:

发觉周大叔没开档已几个星期, 于是问邻近档摊, 才知道周夫人已离开人世. 周大叔也卖掉档口从今不再炒硕莪糕和猪血面线了. 换句话说, 从此罕有的槟城猪血面线和炒硕莪糕也少了一档. 嗨…要吃都没得吃啦!

希望周大叔能节哀顺变.

往事已成回味….老福建古早味 – 炒硕莪糕 (Sago Char)

previous post : 23日 9月 2010

 

晶莹透明的硕莪糕

周大叔说: “做硕莪功夫繁琐,懂得欣赏的人也买少见少,所以已没几个人会做来卖。

光华日报部分访问内容: “从硕莪米到制成硕莪糕,要先用滚热的水将硕莪米、粘米粉、薯粉等搅拌均匀,盛入大盘中凝结后,再切成小块,入滚水中煮熟后再冲冷水,沥干后才能下热镬炒,这些功夫只要一个步骤做不好,就会影响炒硕莪的口感与嚼劲。”

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老福建古早味 – 炒硕莪糕 (Sago Char)

Posted by gill gill On September - 23 - 20103 COMMENTS

上回说周大叔的猪血面线, 这次轮到炒硕莪糕.

具我所知目前槟城市区的炒硕莪只剩下三档, 只有在七条路下午巴刹, 三条路晚市, 上午的姓周桥才有售卖. 相信是槟城以外找不到的古早食品。

周大叔的档摊, 和档后的kopi pondok是老街坊的茶余饭后集聚点.

晶莹透明的硕莪糕

周大叔说: “做硕莪功夫繁琐,懂得欣赏的人也买少见少,所以已没几个人会做来卖。

光华日报部分访问内容: “从硕莪米到制成硕莪糕,要先用滚热的水将硕莪米、粘米粉、薯粉等搅拌均匀,盛入大盘中凝结后,再切成小块,入滚水中煮熟后再冲冷水,沥干后才能下热镬炒,这些功夫只要一个步骤做不好,就会影响炒硕莪的口感与嚼劲。”

这碟炒硕莪糕, 是用周大叔亲手弄硕莪糕与豆芽, 辣椒糊同炒,这类似炒粿角但都是大量炒熟来卖.

食评: 3.6分/5分

硕莪糕本质味道清甜, 带有口感与嚼劲配上惹味咸脆虾米干, 青葱粒, 油葱, 的确另有一番风味. 但豆芽有点生, 导致整碟硕莪糕减分.

和七条路巴刹相比, 周大叔的硕莪糕味道分明, 也不会太辣. 是我的首选.

地点:  周氏桥入口旁, 在大树下搭铁板的咖啡档前, CF Food Court斜对面.

食物推荐: 猪血面线, 炒硕莪

注意: 猪血面线 – 星期四才有卖. 我们吃的时候感觉有点咸, 你可叫周大叔轻手些.

时间: 11pm – 4pm (Off Sunday)

最新情报:

发觉周大叔没开档已几个星期, 于是问邻近档摊, 才知道周夫人已离开人世. 周大叔也卖掉档口从今不再炒硕莪糕和猪血面线了. 换句话说, 从此罕有的槟城猪血面线和炒硕莪糕也少了一档. 嗨…要吃都没得吃啦!

希望周大叔能节哀顺变.

往事已成回味….

previous post : 1日 6月 2011

View Georgetown Food in a larger map

 

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最近我跟上了好几个香港的“实力派”寻食部落,写的是怀旧菜, 叫我看得过颖.

回想游港快一周年咯。。。痛恨那时未能找出实力部落, 只在本地“著名”部落打圈拿资料,他们推荐那些什么“名胜”食店,另我大跌眼镜。真是枉费了5天寻食旅程。。。¥·%!@#

我仅有30来岁, 但感非常叹息那末落和失传的食品. 怀旧食品功夫繁琐, 没有传人或当代人不懂得欣赏, 都是导致渐渐被人遗忘的因素. 其实道理很简单, 新朝代每样物品都靠包装, 远至太空近至贴心内衣裤, 总有一大般追随者跟红顶白. 从事品牌相关行业的我, 固然感到欣慰. 但麻木地追随而忽略了基本要求, 那你多余的花费值得吗?

名气响的菜馆未必好吃,但简陋街旁少为人知的档摊也未必失理. 食物, 部落, 做人的宗旨都是一样, 有实力才见真章.

在两个月前游览光华日报网业时, 发现原来我曾经光顾过的经济炒面芋头糕档是个卧虎藏龙的地方. 光华日报说此猪血面线在槟城以外是找不到的。莫说我, 年轻一代简直没听过的东东. 怎么不叫人遗忘呢?

得知还有机会尝试绝迹猪血面线后, 我和老公越了我爸爸一同体验去.

从乔治市,沿着渡轮码头, 直到姓氏桥海墘,那毫不起眼的杂乱铁木板屋隐藏着老回忆. 从小到大也很少来这区. 近几年才接触这里的食物, 顿时觉得惭愧.

每个姓氏桥入口都非常狭窄, 若不留神一会儿就越过了那小巷. 每天上午11点, 周大叔就会开始售卖他亲手做的经济小食, 炒米粉、糯米油饭、芋头糕/金瓜糕、蕃薯汤/红豆沙、炒硕莪、 还有每星期四才卖一次的猪血面线.

周大叔摊档就正在周氏桥入口旁, 在大树下的一间搭铁板的咖啡档前, CF Food Court斜对面. 具我所知目前槟城猪血面线近乎绝迹, 只剩下两三档而已. 只有在七条路下午巴刹, 上午的姓周桥才有售卖. 我爸爸说比起七条路, 周大叔的猪血面线比较够味,料多,好吃.

这是光华日报部分访问内容: “周大叔说,猪血面线一定要趁热吃,所以卖猪血面线,面线保温是门学问,可不是就放在火炉上那么简单,煮到太糊太干就难吃了。因此,他不多卖,一周逢周四才卖一次,来吃得都是住在附近的老福建。据说,从前猪血面线是老槟城很普遍的小吃,现在或许只有在姓周桥才尝得到这濒临失传的美味。”

煮成一大锅的猪血面线, 要吃时才弄热.

热情健壯的周大叔, 卖的是老福建小食

芋头糕, 金瓜糕双拼

食评: 3.8分/5分

热腾腾的面线, 高汤味浓, 羹汤稠度适中,面线香滑,猪血结实,鸡丝、三层肉、猪油渣,洒上青葱粒和胡椒粉, 一道老情怀另人暖胃.

不知添上些黑醋或绍兴酒会否画龙点睛呢? 等我下次打包回家试试在跟你说 😀

地点:  周氏桥入口旁, 在大树下的一间搭铁板的咖啡档前, CF Food Court斜对面.

食物推荐: 猪血面线, 炒硕莪

注意: 猪血面线 – 星期四才有卖. 我们吃的时候感觉有点咸, 你可叫周大叔轻手些.

时间: 11pm – 4pm (Off Sunday)

最新消息: Latest update : 1日 6月 2011

发觉周大叔没开档已几个星期, 于是问邻近档摊, 才知道周夫人已离开人世. 周大叔也卖掉档口从今不再炒硕莪糕和猪血面线了. 换句话说, 从此罕有的槟城猪血面线和炒硕莪糕也少了一档. 嗨…要吃都没得吃啦!

希望周大叔能节哀顺变.

往事已成回味….

View Georgetown Food in a larger map

继续阅读下一篇…

老福建古早味 – 炒硕莪糕 (Sago Char)

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Nan Yang Hokkienese Cuisine, Penang

Posted by gill gill On February - 6 - 20094 COMMENTS

Seems very long time i have not contribute to the blog…hehe (monitoring lah…), and Jason has been nagging me for ages! Once stopped, and would very lazy to get started again…..hahaha.Well, im back!
This post supposingly posted months ago…and you wouldn’t mind to read old info right? haha

fv-081025-nan-yang-chinese-cuisine-40

Nanyang Serve Authentic Hokkiense Cuisine.
The restaurant is located at the Protected Heritage Area in Georgetown, is a corner shop house at the cross junction of Lebuh Armenian, Jalan Masjid Kapitan Kelian & Lebuh Cannon. Its exactly opposite the Yap Kongsi.

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They have been published in the local Chinese press

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Trishaw incidentally passed by and came at the right timing while we shooting the side door of the restaurant.

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A lot of greens at the side door pathway. Authentic & old style of Chinese living Decor.

We have ordered 6 items to satisfy our curiosities and to fulfill our big stomach…here comes the dishes

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Char Tzu Hoon ???, it is something like Stir Fry Char Hor Fun in dried version. I never expect the Kuih come in brown color.
Look at the kuih, although the kuih came dark in color but you still be able to see how transparent  it was while its under the sunlight from the picture. The kuih was thin, springy and chewy. Oriental Stir frying with leeks, cabbage, black fungus, chicken meat and prawns. Simply yet delicious, and full with char-grilled taste (in cantonese it’s call “Wok Hei”). i like it. i would give 3.9/5 for taste & texture.

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Teow Chew Spring Roll.
It came with a very huge and humble size , its was tidely filled with lots of ingredient such as turnip, mushroom, tiny cooked oyster, meat floss, bean curd, carrot, seaweed, deep fried vermicelli.

To enjoy this Spring Roll, and make sure you have a big mouth to consume it….haaaa, i cant even put the whole piece into my mouth! that is why you be able to see the messy leftover from the above photo. It was a very filling dish, as we just only have 2 stomach here, better to say sorry, or else we cant walk back to our car for sure….lol

i would give 3/5 for taste & texture.

fv-081025-nan-yang-chinese-cuisine-23Oyster Pancake / Omelette
look at the oyster, so eye catchy huh? 🙂
Fresh and juicy oyster was lightly stir fried and layed on the bed of crispy golden and flavouful omelette. This Oyster Omelette is pretty different from what i had from those hawker stall. I can sense the meaty flavor from the omelette but you cant even get a pcs of meat from there. I think they used meat broth to ehance and give the richness to the omelette, which make it so special from the others. It was pretty starchy in the omelette. But did not feel yucks at all.
Highly recommended

i would give 4/5 for taste & texture.

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Deep Fried Home Made Meat ball
A mouth full of homemade meatball can fulfill your meat desire.
10 pcs of deep fried meatballs serve with some julinine carrot & cucumber pickle. The meatball doesnt give me the sharp impression, and not as outstanding as the others. i would suggest to take the pickle together with the meatball, wi would be nicer.

i would give 3/5 for taste & texture.

fv-081025-nan-yang-chinese-cuisine-34Sitr Fry Tapioca Leafs (without sambal)
We op for normal stir fry Tapioca Leafs rather then sambal. Have you try Tapioca Leafs without adding any heavy flavor to it? you should give it a try next time, and you will love it so much! The restaurant used fresh and young tapioca leafs, and simply stir fried with “Wok Hei”. The young tapioca leafs just cooked at the right timing. The leafts was so soft & smooth, yet you still can feel the freshness & crunchiness of the stock, and red chili gives the sweetness to the vegetable. . .Sooo delicious.

i would give 4.4/5 for taste & texture.

On average, I would give this place:

* 3.5/5 for value
* 3.9/5 for taste & texture
* 3.8/5 for service
* 3/5 for cleanliness
* 3/5 for atmosphere

p/s: although we had a good experience for our first try, but our second visit was totally different story. Well, probably the chef hasn’t warmed up with her first order at the early lunch time. So i guess their quality would be inconsistent.

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