Gourmet Garden

Hunting For The Flavors & Texture Of Yesteryears'

Heritage

History, heritage or culture behind certain dish or cuisine.

Savory Tang Yuan for Winter Solstice (Dong Zhì)

Posted by gill gill On December - 21 - 20101 COMMENT

Have you heard or try Savory Tang Yuan before?

It is truly a “Forgotten Recipe” from Hakka & Cantonese Dialect. We have received many readers request about this savory tang yuan recipe since we’ve posted the winter solstice from 2008.
Other than we talk about the sweet version which has tones of fans, we rather share those who are forgotten and unique from the rest.
We have prepare the steps with photo and recipe below, and do enjoy the cooking and happy winter solstice to you & your family 🙂

Step 1 & 2. Begin of the Yellow Bean & Anchovies Soup Base

Step 4. Chicken Gizzard to Give the extra texture
Slice Pork & Spring Onions
Tang Yuan In Bean and Anchovies Soup

Savory Tang Yuan Soup

Tang Yuan:

I don’t really know what and how to make the tang yuan dough, but all I know is using glutinous four to makes it up…heee

The only tips that I can share is, cook the tang yuan in boiling water and wait until its float on top of the water, and its cooked. And throw them immediately into Ice Water. This step is to make the ball springier and doesn’t go lumpy /mushy.

We don’t really measure what we cook for this Soup, and is all according to the taste

Soup base (basic soup base for wonton noodle soup):

  • Handfuls of Dried Soya Bean
  • Handfuls of Dried Anchovies
  • Chicken or Pig born
  • Water for soup

Ingredient:

  • Cabbage (coarsely shredded)
  • Chicken gizzard (thick slices)
  • Pork belly 600gm or more (in whole pcs)
  • Spring onion (4cm in length)
  • Home fried shallots

Step by Step:

  1. Put Soya Bean & Anchovies into soup bag/sachet. Don’t insert the bag too full, when it cooks, the beans will be bloated. The ideal portion is 1/3 of the bag. Or put those 2 ingredients in 2 different bags.
  2. After filled in the Soya Bean & Anchovies in the bag, put them all into boiling water and cover the lid, with medium to low heat, and cook about 30min or until you can smell the aroma.
  3. Take out the soup bag. Leave the soup aside.
  4. Boil water in another pot, to poach the whole pcs of pork belly and chicken gizzard until it’s done or tender. Take out and drain. Cut them into thin slices when it’s cooled. Set both aside.
  5. Warm up the Anchovies soup and throw the cabbage in and cooked till tender. Add Salt to taste. Drain the Vege and set aside.
  6. Basically the cooking step is all done.

Eating Step:

Just heat up the soup, scope all the precooked ingredient, tong yuan, cabbage, gizzard, pork belly, spring onion, and pour the steaming hot soup into the bowl and top with some homemade fried shallot. Enjoy!

Those precooked ingredient and soup can keep into the refrigerator and you may heat up for the next day. Except tang yuan, its good when eat its fresh.

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古法猪网油蒸鱼 Steam Fish with Caul Lining

Posted by gill gill On November - 9 - 20105 COMMENTS

也许你看到这个标题后, 立刻冒出疑问: “什么猪网油? 猪网油是什么? 猪油有网的嚒? ”

中华厨艺博大精深, 连那薄薄的一层油都逃不过他们的法眼.

懂得猪网油的人少之又少, 更何况是看, 摸,用和品尝? 本土的传统客家和娘惹菜就保存了用猪网油做菜,包肉等….但也逐渐面临失传危机.

网上找到猪网油 (Cauls Lining) 的简介:

猪网油,即猪油,又称为网油,是猪肌肉缝里成网状的油脂,在烹饪制作时当配料时常被用到。油脂在经过加热后,会产生一种特殊香味,能够增进人们的食欲。

老一辈的公公婆婆或许对此物有点认识. 但30以下的年轻朋友们可说是闻所未闻, 99%都不明白你在讲什么.

只有内行人才当网油是宝. 竟管如此, 但未必人人都有毅力去处理它. 因清洗程序繁复, 又要小心翼翼地不弄破网脂, 所以会用它做菜的极少.

万幸从前辈口中得知, 才有机会亲身体验古人的智慧, 如何运用此油脂带来更高层次的享受.

不愧称为网油, 真的不可思议. 创造主真美妙!

买猪网油是必需和肉商预订, 一只猪的网油是足以包2kg的鱼.

真的像网一样, 看那油脂像蹊流分布大地…

要清洗豬網油需用白醋及鹽作多次洗擦去羶和杂质

网上搜索了少许食谱, 选了最容易的做法就是蒸!

将处理好的网油铺在碟上, 然后排列泡洗过的东菇片和火腿片.

最后放上鱼

我们用了一条小马友鱼做菜, 两人嘛,吃不多. 选大条河/海鱼效果会更好

用猪网油把鱼包扎

猪网MUMMY!

铺上姜片和葱段, 放酱汁后就拿去大火蒸8-10分钟, 视鱼的size而定

随意调你喜爱的酱汁但千万不可用重味的汁盖过, 那不是浪费掉辛苦洗察的猪网油? 酱油和熟油是最好的配搭,但切忌过咸

杰作完成!

把猪网油打开去掉, 即可食用

后记:

用猪网油包的鱼, 肉质顺滑细嫰, 味道的确带有脂香, 但还是做得不够好, 可能是鱼太小, 未完全成长, 没鱼脂和肉不甜.  我还剩下一个猪网, 流下回再战!

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老福建古早味 – 炒硕莪糕 (Sago Char)

Posted by gill gill On September - 23 - 20103 COMMENTS

上回说周大叔的猪血面线, 这次轮到炒硕莪糕.

具我所知目前槟城市区的炒硕莪只剩下三档, 只有在七条路下午巴刹, 三条路晚市, 上午的姓周桥才有售卖. 相信是槟城以外找不到的古早食品。

周大叔的档摊, 和档后的kopi pondok是老街坊的茶余饭后集聚点.

晶莹透明的硕莪糕

周大叔说: “做硕莪功夫繁琐,懂得欣赏的人也买少见少,所以已没几个人会做来卖。

光华日报部分访问内容: “从硕莪米到制成硕莪糕,要先用滚热的水将硕莪米、粘米粉、薯粉等搅拌均匀,盛入大盘中凝结后,再切成小块,入滚水中煮熟后再冲冷水,沥干后才能下热镬炒,这些功夫只要一个步骤做不好,就会影响炒硕莪的口感与嚼劲。”

这碟炒硕莪糕, 是用周大叔亲手弄硕莪糕与豆芽, 辣椒糊同炒,这类似炒粿角但都是大量炒熟来卖.

食评: 3.6分/5分

硕莪糕本质味道清甜, 带有口感与嚼劲配上惹味咸脆虾米干, 青葱粒, 油葱, 的确另有一番风味. 但豆芽有点生, 导致整碟硕莪糕减分.

和七条路巴刹相比, 周大叔的硕莪糕味道分明, 也不会太辣. 是我的首选.

地点:  周氏桥入口旁, 在大树下搭铁板的咖啡档前, CF Food Court斜对面.

食物推荐: 猪血面线, 炒硕莪

注意: 猪血面线 – 星期四才有卖. 我们吃的时候感觉有点咸, 你可叫周大叔轻手些.

时间: 11pm – 4pm (Off Sunday)

最新情报:

发觉周大叔没开档已几个星期, 于是问邻近档摊, 才知道周夫人已离开人世. 周大叔也卖掉档口从今不再炒硕莪糕和猪血面线了. 换句话说, 从此罕有的槟城猪血面线和炒硕莪糕也少了一档. 嗨…要吃都没得吃啦!

希望周大叔能节哀顺变.

往事已成回味….

previous post : 1日 6月 2011

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老店名饼-荣成娘惹月饼 Yong Sheng Nyonya Mooncake

Posted by gill gill On September - 21 - 20101 COMMENT

一年一度的中秋节落在这个星期三, 先祝各位读者和网友中秋节快乐!

去了gurney plaza走了一圈, 本来不打算买月饼的我, 看着看着那些五花八门的促销, 心也动了 😀

我一眼就看上了这个怀旧娘惹的包装, 特别有feel, 于是我们和售货员要了些sample试吃.

Brochure 封面

以下有 “Tick” 是我们所买的特色月饼.

天山紫薯 Moon Light Kiss Moon Cake – 用日本紫蕃薯做馅, 有蕃薯香味…不错不错

经典娘惹 Passion for Life Moon Cake – 这个是不辣版本, 有创意…可一试.

潮州梅冬菜饼 – 又咸又甜的配搭, 很有趣.

蛋黄酥 Egg Yolk Pies – 这个是他们得奖之作,  内馅入口即容, 的确有水准.

娘惹叁曼月饼 Nyonya Sambal Moon Cake – 这个和经典娘惹相似, 但是辣版…虾米味香. 值得一试.

这家从柔佛州出品的月饼的确给我们惊喜,所以我才放上网推荐. 不妨一试 😀

http://yongsheng.com.my/

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最近我跟上了好几个香港的“实力派”寻食部落,写的是怀旧菜, 叫我看得过颖.

回想游港快一周年咯。。。痛恨那时未能找出实力部落, 只在本地“著名”部落打圈拿资料,他们推荐那些什么“名胜”食店,另我大跌眼镜。真是枉费了5天寻食旅程。。。¥·%!@#

我仅有30来岁, 但感非常叹息那末落和失传的食品. 怀旧食品功夫繁琐, 没有传人或当代人不懂得欣赏, 都是导致渐渐被人遗忘的因素. 其实道理很简单, 新朝代每样物品都靠包装, 远至太空近至贴心内衣裤, 总有一大般追随者跟红顶白. 从事品牌相关行业的我, 固然感到欣慰. 但麻木地追随而忽略了基本要求, 那你多余的花费值得吗?

名气响的菜馆未必好吃,但简陋街旁少为人知的档摊也未必失理. 食物, 部落, 做人的宗旨都是一样, 有实力才见真章.

在两个月前游览光华日报网业时, 发现原来我曾经光顾过的经济炒面芋头糕档是个卧虎藏龙的地方. 光华日报说此猪血面线在槟城以外是找不到的。莫说我, 年轻一代简直没听过的东东. 怎么不叫人遗忘呢?

得知还有机会尝试绝迹猪血面线后, 我和老公越了我爸爸一同体验去.

从乔治市,沿着渡轮码头, 直到姓氏桥海墘,那毫不起眼的杂乱铁木板屋隐藏着老回忆. 从小到大也很少来这区. 近几年才接触这里的食物, 顿时觉得惭愧.

每个姓氏桥入口都非常狭窄, 若不留神一会儿就越过了那小巷. 每天上午11点, 周大叔就会开始售卖他亲手做的经济小食, 炒米粉、糯米油饭、芋头糕/金瓜糕、蕃薯汤/红豆沙、炒硕莪、 还有每星期四才卖一次的猪血面线.

周大叔摊档就正在周氏桥入口旁, 在大树下的一间搭铁板的咖啡档前, CF Food Court斜对面. 具我所知目前槟城猪血面线近乎绝迹, 只剩下两三档而已. 只有在七条路下午巴刹, 上午的姓周桥才有售卖. 我爸爸说比起七条路, 周大叔的猪血面线比较够味,料多,好吃.

这是光华日报部分访问内容: “周大叔说,猪血面线一定要趁热吃,所以卖猪血面线,面线保温是门学问,可不是就放在火炉上那么简单,煮到太糊太干就难吃了。因此,他不多卖,一周逢周四才卖一次,来吃得都是住在附近的老福建。据说,从前猪血面线是老槟城很普遍的小吃,现在或许只有在姓周桥才尝得到这濒临失传的美味。”

煮成一大锅的猪血面线, 要吃时才弄热.

热情健壯的周大叔, 卖的是老福建小食

芋头糕, 金瓜糕双拼

食评: 3.8分/5分

热腾腾的面线, 高汤味浓, 羹汤稠度适中,面线香滑,猪血结实,鸡丝、三层肉、猪油渣,洒上青葱粒和胡椒粉, 一道老情怀另人暖胃.

不知添上些黑醋或绍兴酒会否画龙点睛呢? 等我下次打包回家试试在跟你说 😀

地点:  周氏桥入口旁, 在大树下的一间搭铁板的咖啡档前, CF Food Court斜对面.

食物推荐: 猪血面线, 炒硕莪

注意: 猪血面线 – 星期四才有卖. 我们吃的时候感觉有点咸, 你可叫周大叔轻手些.

时间: 11pm – 4pm (Off Sunday)

最新消息: Latest update : 1日 6月 2011

发觉周大叔没开档已几个星期, 于是问邻近档摊, 才知道周夫人已离开人世. 周大叔也卖掉档口从今不再炒硕莪糕和猪血面线了. 换句话说, 从此罕有的槟城猪血面线和炒硕莪糕也少了一档. 嗨…要吃都没得吃啦!

希望周大叔能节哀顺变.

往事已成回味….

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继续阅读下一篇…

老福建古早味 – 炒硕莪糕 (Sago Char)

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自制家常腊肠食谱

Posted by gill gill On December - 22 - 20091 COMMENT

Chinese Sausage

上集讲到冬节吃腊味, 那这回就来动手做家常腊肠!

材料:
猪前腿肉碎(夹心) 450克
五花腩肉 170克
玫瑰露酒 30克
豬肠衣 20克

腌料:
盐     1茶匙
生抽 50克
蚝油 30克
白砂糖 110克

做法:
1.    将肉碎和腌料(除酒)拌均匀, 拌到起胶, 腌3个小时以上存入冰箱过夜.
2.    加入酒, 搅匀后马上塞进肠衣内.
3.    把肉塞完毕后, 用 绳子绑出喜爱的长度. 用针在肉肠上刺洞, 然后烫热水.
4.    在强烈的太阳光下晒2天至到八九成干身即可收下来,若是太干,吃起来会硬邦邦的,口感不好.
5.    若天气不稳定, 可把肉肠放进烘炉里以慢火烘干.
6.    把晒好的腊肠收入冰箱储存.

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若你想烹调和享用自己辛苦的杰作, 你可游览我们2008年在新年其间所分享英文版腊味煲仔饭食谱

祝您成功!

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Traditional Foods: Hakka Abacus Beads

Posted by Jason Wong On December - 19 - 20095 COMMENTS

Hakka cuisine concentrates on the texture of food, simplicity and the umami (旨味) or savoury flavour of the dish. As like other dishes or cuisines, Hakka cuisine is influence by the attributes of the environment were they settled down or has it roots from, which is one of the reasons behind the variety of dishes and flavours that are synonymous to Hakka cuisine. The Hakka’s has provided to the public at large some their more famous dishes that are dished our in restaurants across Malaysia, China and whole wide world, some of these dishes are your common ‘Yong Taufu’(釀豆腐)or stuffed bean curd, ‘Yim Guk Gai’ (鹽焗雞) or Salt Baked Chicken, Poon Choy (盆菜), ‘Suin Poon Tzi’ (算盘子) or Abacus beads and lots more.
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A few weeks ago on the 10th of December we had an opportunity to document the making of ‘Hakka Abacus Beads’ by a new entrepreneur, Ms. Lai Sze Ying, in Kuala Lumpur. It is one of the ways that we try to do our part to keep the diverse heritage and culture of food that we have a live for our future generation.  By doing so, we also hope to help budding food providers that are making delicacies the way it should to grow and spread the wonders of old school food.

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This post I will introduce the making of ‘Suin Poon Tzi’ (算盘子) or Abacus Beads. Abacus Beads are made from freshly mashed Yam which is then combined with tapioca flour to form the dough that is cut and rolled into the shape of an abacus bead. The difference between the traditional and current abacus bead is the content of Yam and the final abacus bead shape. The算盘子/ abacus when cooked has a soft on the outside and chewy on the inside texture, which could be served stir fry or in soup. The common popular version would be stir frying with either of the following ingredients; minced pork or chicken, dried shrimps, mushrooms, ‘choy poh’, black wood ear, etc.

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Before the dough is form to make the ‘Suin Poon Tzi’ (算盘子), Yam is cooked to a consistency that allows it to be mash up like when one make mash potato.

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After the Yam is cooked to the required consistency, it is roughly mashed and then combined with tapioca flour to form the dough base which will be knead, cut and rolled to shape.

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Before the Yam cools down, the Yam and Tapioca flour mixture is traditionally hand kneaded until it forms the firm dough.

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After the Yam dough is finally formed, it is then divided into smaller section to work with. The smaller section are rolled into a strand which then cut to size and form into the shape of a abacus bead, which round in shape.

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Next, a small puncture or stamp is made with chopstick in the middle of each formed abacus bead. This the part which differentiates the product produced by this new comer to the F&B industry from the common abacus beads suppliers in the market. And it is because of the near authenticity that we were greatly interested to document and introduce this budding entrepreneur that met through our acquaintance in KL.

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After the abacus beads were ready formed and mark with the distinctive nod in the centre, it is then moved to the cooking pot or wok in this case to be thoroughly cooked with just simple clean boiling water, and then blenched in cold or running water to give it that springy and chewy texture.

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The end product is the drained and is ready to be stir fry with you choice ingredients.

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何谓好吃的云吞面?

Posted by gill gill On November - 24 - 200927 COMMENTS

云吞面是起源于广州。据说,此食品在唐宋时已传入广东。至于广东何时用“云吞”二字取代“馄饨”之称,则无从考证。经几百年后的今天, 云吞面已经是谱罗大众绝不可缺的街头面食,在华人心目中有不可取代的地位. 随着华人移民的增加,在不同国家和区域里的云吞面也各有各精彩.在这儿暂别不谈历史, 不如大家一起来研究一下大马和香港两地的云吞面有何不同之处, 了解面条区分之余, 分享怎样吃云吞面才是最赞.

我和我丈夫俩人,素来喜爱吃猪油渣.别看那脆脆小小块的“渣”.放下一小匙乃有画龙点睛之效.某些食物若不配上它同吃,味道显然有差异.

不论是云吞面或是炒粿條,用“猪油和猪油渣”来烹调, 才能带出它原有的特色和香味。无可否认,现今社会每样都强调“吃得建康”。但不是叫你每天都吃炒粿條,云吞面呀!偶而尝一尝也无妨吧?什么东西多吃也有害. 例如Vitamin A, B, C够好了吧?若你吃得太多,它令你的肝脏负荷不来而倒至损坏. 那还有什么是好的呀? 不是“猪油”不好,而是现代人少做运动,怕肥才不敢吃.真可惜!你们该知道为何槟城的小食比吉隆坡来得有水准吧?虽然槟城好吃的越来越少,但有些还仍然保存着传统的烹调方式。

讲了老半天还没提到好吃的云吞面应该是怎样的呢?!

云吞面条

新鲜出炉的云吞面条其实是不鼓励现做现吃, 若你现煮, 会感觉吃面团一样, 毫无咬劲. 听前辈说, 云吞面条必须经过“走碱液”的步奏, 让它蒸发, 才算合格. 最理想的是放 置4天. 经过“走碱”的面条吃起来特别爽口而且有弹性. 现今讲求快速生产, 面家多以现做现批, 或最多“走碱” 2天而已.

查看书籍发现, 原来传统的云吞面条是用大茅竹竿即“竹升” 打压出来的, 称之为”竹升面”。面团经过用手搓面处理后,用“竹升”压打2小时,  全凭经验, 功夫和恒心.

云吞面有三类: 全蛋面, 半蛋面, 水面
全蛋面以鸭蛋和面,绝不加一滴水, 打出来的面条爽滑韧性好,蛋味香浓。
另一种是半蛋面,用鸭蛋与一定比例的水调配和面,面条爽滑可口,口感细腻。
水面则不放蛋, 煮后呈半透明, 和以上两种相比,没香味, 需靠酱汁拌味.

马来西亚云吞面

本土人民多喜爱味道脓郁的干捞云吞面.
酱汁做法是用酱清,黑酱油,蚝油,麻油,混入少许上汤和纯正猪油或烧猪油一起捞。配上半肥廋叉烧,肥美菜心,酸度适中的奄制青辣椒和皮薄陷美的水煮云吞或酥脆炸云吞,在洒上葱粒, 香脆可口的猪油渣…哇!简直是无敌的配搭呀, 满足满足!

而本地的汤头是以江鱼仔, 黄豆, 猪大骨熬煮而成, 有独特的清香甜味.
以我各人口味,我喜爱吃干捞,特别是干干的, 还有缺一不可的猪油渣!不防试一试.

FV-090411-Seng Thor Kopitiam_15

马来西亚干捞云吞面

FV-090411-Seng Thor Kopitiam_20

云吞汤

FV-090411-Seng Thor Kopitiam_26酥脆炸云吞

FV-090411-Seng Thor Kopitiam_22

香脆可口猪油渣 :D~

FV-081227-KL (12)

半肥廋的叉烧

香港云吞面

然而香港与马来西亚的云吞面版本完全不同, 他们讲究的是面条质感和弹性, 细得像米粉般幼, 配上大地鱼干上汤, 爽脆鲜味的大虾云吞(完全没放猪肉), 用韭黄段来点缀. 这就是名副其实的现代香港云吞面!

面条能够不易吸水还要有蛋香,爽滑而弹牙,鸭蛋就是秘诀.

汤头用猪骨, 虾米, 虾子和大地鱼干以文火一起熬煮,汤必须澄清透澈,味道浓,才可突显云吞和面条的色泽和口感。
云吞皮包上新鲜大虾和虾子, 口感十足, 鲜甜带有咸香. 一乐也.
香港干捞面决不像大马般的捞酱汁, 他们的非常简单, 只是捞猪油和虾子(干虾蛋)一起同吃.

无论是大马或香港都各有千秋.那您又有什么看发呢? 那一种是您的最爱? 有谁能介绍好的云吞面家吗?

HK-091110_050弹牙十足的鸭蛋面条

HK-091110_053

鲜虾云吞

HK-091110_041看那大虾!

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